The day is an open road stretching out before you. Roll down the windows, Step into your life, as if it were a fast car. —From Barbara Crooker’s Promise Along with strong black coffee, a bracing poem is one of my favorite ways to start the day. By the time I reach the breakfast table, carrying my steaming mug of Italian Roast and a bit of poetry, I’ve already glanced at the morning headlines and am holding on to my sanity (if at all) by my fingernails. I sometimes find myself clinging all day to a single line as if it were a rope thrown from a passing ship. “Still I rise,” I mutter, blessing Maya Angelou for this mantra when events seem hell bent on bringing me to my knees. “Still I rise.” I also cling to the wisdom of Karen Shepherd’s poem written in the voice of her dog, Birch. Are you gonna eat that? Are you gonna eat that? Are you gonna eat that? I’ll eat that. A blessed reminder of the way our best friends live in the moment and keep a firm grasp on life’s true priorities. I can’t imagine getting through a single day without the company of the written word to comfort, inform, and inspire me. How do the 57.4 million Americans who can’t read survive? Many don’t, and studies show the turning point comes in fourth grade. Any kid who doesn’t learn to read by the end of that school year has a two out of three chance of ending up in jail or on welfare. One of our local authors is trying to give children better odds. You may remember Dave Eggers for his modestly titled, Pulitzer-finalist bestseller, A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius. His technothriller The Circle is a movie on Netflix and the subject of the new documentary To Be Destroyed, which discusses why his book was banned in Rapid City, South Dakota and designated "to be destroyed." But to thousands of kids, Eggers is the guy who started 826 Valencia, a nonprofit that provides free tutoring services to help youngsters develop the skills and vision to express themselves through creative writing. It's also a pirate store. If you're planning to sail the Seven Seas, here's where you can stock up on such swashbuckling accoutrements as spyglasses, eyepatches, peg legs, Jolly Rogers, and of course, bottles of giant squid repellant, leech-based gangrene cures, and Scurvy Begone. The building’s zoning required a commercial venture, and Eggers figured, rightly, that selling pirate paraphernalia would attract youngsters (of all ages). Opened in 2002, the store took its name from the address — 826 Valencia — in San Francisco’s Mission District. Upstairs Egger installed his publishing company, McSweeny’s, and volunteers from his staff started teaching youngsters about writing as an act of courage and imagination. The kids’ best work was published, sometimes with forwards by public figures such as Gavin Newsom (then San Francisco’s mayor, now California’s governor) and Robin Williams. “We have to go check it out,” I told Rich. “You had me at pirate store.” We took the ferry to the city and hopped one of the vintage trollies, which let us off at the north end of Valencia — which, as we soon learned, is the dodgy end. Picking our way past shuttered storefronts and the occasional sidewalk sleeper, we stopped for coffee at Carlin’s café and laundromat. The staff was welcoming, my croissant was buttery perfection, and our espresso was as zingy as the bright ceramic cups it came in. “And as if that wasn’t enough,” Rich said, “I get to look through this glass wall here and watch some guy folding his clean underwear!” After this refreshing pause, we strolled south to the more vibrant section of Valencia Street, with its oddball shops and the famous murals of Clarion Alley. When we reached the Pirate Supply Store, Rich ambled about happily investigating its treasures while I worked my way to the back so I could peer into the kids’ now-empty workspace. “We have 38 kids in the summer program,” explained a young associate named Brynn. “With our school outreach programs, we’re serving a thousand kids in the city.” The organization has opened chapters in eight other US cities and established 826 National and 826 Digital, touching the lives of 710,000 American students and countless more in nine other countries. Well, shiver me timbers, mateys — that’s a lot of budding writers! Fair winds to them all. A block further on, we encountered the scrappy, old-school Dog Eared Books, lone survivor of the nine bookstores that once graced Valencia Street. Modernization? Don’t make them laugh. Sales receipts and inventories are still written by hand in an atmosphere of creaky wooden floors and the heady scent of vintage paper. “You can find the answers on the Internet in a split second,” long-time Dog Eared customer Bryan Foster once told journalists. “But unless you read books, you don’t know what the questions are.” Finding the right questions and answers is never easy, and it’s particularly tough in parts of the US where access to "inappropriate" books is restricted. That’s why the Castro’s famous LGBTQ+ bookstore, Fabulosa, launched the grassroots, donation-funded Books not Bans project, shipping free books to areas where gender-themed works are taboo. In a similar spirit, the national Banned Book Club provides free digital versions of a wide range of banned subjects. What makes a book “inappropriate”? In 61% of cases, it’s sex. I used to think teenage boys were the most sex-obsessed creatures on earth, but it’s clear they’ve been surpassed by conservative school board members. These officials have denounced thousands of books — To Kill a Mockingbird, Like Water for Chocolate, and Peter Pan, for instance — over alleged “sexual content.” And it could get worse soon. You may have heard of the Heritage Foundation's Project 2025 — a blueprint for overhauling the government along more conservative lines. Page five of the 922-page document defines as “pornography” any book contributing to the "sexualization of children” (see list above!). They want “porn” like Peter Pan outlawed nationwide so that educators, booksellers, and librarians selling or lending these books would face criminal prosecution as sex offenders. That’s seriously nuts. While we're growing up, books are supposed to help us learn about sex, and love, and how relationships work. Stories teach us about fairness and honor, betrayal and heartbreak, compassion and cruelty. Novels show us that monsters are real, and that they can be beaten — but sometimes aren’t. Books help us rehearse for real life. They let us catch glimpses a larger world, cope with loss, and begin to dream of the kind of person we want to be. Saying books shouldn’t teach us about the realities of life is as ridiculous as telling a dog it’s unseemly to stick his head out the car window. Everyone has the right to experience, if only metaphorically, the glorious rush of wind in our face as we drink in the full, tumultuous wildness of the world, grinning from ear to ear. And that’s why I read poetry every morning: to revel for a moment in the rapture of being alive.
A walk down Valencia Street will lead you to all these places, plus incredible eateries and more oddball shops. Fabulosa Books is a mile east in the Castro; we had lunch out there, enjoying the Frango Acebolado (Chicken with Onions, $20) in the Brazilian Café del Casa.
NO POST NEXT WEEK I'm away at a family reunion in the mountains with no wifi. SUBSCRIBERS If you miss a post announcement, please check your spam folder. Internet security is in a frenzy these days. This post is part of my ongoing series OUT TO LUNCH IN CHEAP & CHEERFUL SAN FRANCISCO My goal is to discover some of San Francisco's most colorful neighborhoods so I can check out what's really going on in this zany town. Are we in a doom loop? Already on the rebound? Still fabulous? And where should we eat afterwards? These and other questions will be explored in upcoming posts. BROWSE PREVIOUS POSTS HERE DON'T MISS OUT! If you haven't already, take a moment to subscribe so I can let you know when I publish my weekly posts. Just send me an email and I'll take it from there. [email protected] And check out my best selling travel memoirs & guide books here. PLANNING A TRIP? Enter any destination or topic, such as packing light or road food, in the search box below. If I've written about it, you'll find it.
16 Comments
Jeff Martin
7/23/2024 06:03:41 pm
Love Valencia, haven’t been since Covid, thanks for reminding me!
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Karen McCann
7/24/2024 03:36:01 pm
Jeff, great to hear from you! Yes, Valencia Street is a wild and wonderful neighborhood, and one I'd never properly explored until now. Although it's lost a lot of bookstores, it still has its loony character and great restaurants. Hope you get back there soon.
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Carol
7/23/2024 06:19:44 pm
Great post. I especially value the quote “You can find the answers on the Internet in a split second,” long-time Dog Eared customer Bryan Foster once told journalists. “But unless you read books, you don’t know what the questions are.”
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Karen McCann
7/24/2024 03:41:18 pm
Thanks, Carol, I'm so glad you liked the post. The idea of restricting reading materials for high school kids — or adults, for that matter — seems utterly wrong and very un-American to me. I comfort myself with the thought that the best way to get teenagers to do anything is to forbid it, so maybe book banning will launch a new vogue in bootleg books and secret reading clubs. We can only hope.
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I am so happy that I stumbled across this site.
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Karen McCann
7/24/2024 03:42:50 pm
I am glad you enjoyed the post. Those dogs made me laugh too; they are so silly and wonderful.
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paul guerin
7/25/2024 03:29:13 am
One of your best dear!
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Karen McCann
8/1/2024 06:16:17 pm
Thanks, Paul! It was so much fun to research and write this one. Glad you liked it!
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Tobey Hiller
7/25/2024 11:37:24 pm
Seriously wonderful post, Karen!--so limportant and lively and fun at the same time! I'm sure it will move anyone who reads it to action of some sort, (if only to read a poem or two!). Reminds SO vividly of the importance of books--and curiosity!--to a free and balanced society. I knew about Eggers' organization, but glad to be reminded.
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Karen McCann
8/1/2024 06:21:07 pm
As an author yourself, Tobey, you understand the value of books in our lives, and their roll in creating a free and balanced society. We cannot afford to restrict the reading material available to future generations — they need to embrace all sorts of books to learn and grow in wisdom, to discover their own curiosity, and form fresh and original ideas.
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Faye
7/26/2024 05:22:55 am
Ditto everyone’s comments. I, too, love the dogs.
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Karen McCann
8/1/2024 06:21:31 pm
Aren't those hounds delightful? I thought you'd enjoy them, Faye.
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7/26/2024 08:35:06 pm
I've been enjoying your adventures in San Francisco (and environs) as much as I do your Spanish ones. Delightful! It's like each week I get to travel along with you for a little bit. It's wonderful! I looooove seeing/reading about the book stores. I've always been an avid reader, so learning about the literacy project is just fantastic.
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Karen McCann
8/1/2024 06:26:09 pm
As writers, Shéa, you and I have spent our lives reveling in the world of books and ideas. That's why book stores are always a favorite theme for me ...they are treasure troves of quirky viewpoints, thrilling adventures, wisdom, and just plain fun. That's why I love Dave Eggers' pirate store and literacy program. Let's get more kids reading and writing! It will make the world a better place.
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Ana
7/28/2024 03:58:14 pm
Wonderful post and reminder of all the wonderful things well within our reach, including coffee, poetry and our SF neighborhoods. Thank you!
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Karen McCann
8/1/2024 06:27:34 pm
So glad you like the post, Ana. Each visit to San Francisco reminds me all over again that it's the little things — a good espresso, and charming line of poetry — that give life its rich texture.
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