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Bar Alfalfa, corner of Alfalfa & Candilejo. I love this one for relaxed breakfasts and afternoon snacks; at night it's jammed to the rafters and deafeningly noisy.
Café Universal,Blanca de los Rios, 1 (just off Plaza Salvador). A great choice in winter, due to excellent heating (a rarity here), this café offers classics with a slight twist. Try the spinach with bacon and walnuts.
Los Claveles, Plaza de los Terceros, 15. To be honest, the food's basic bar fare at best, but the atmosphere is "Sevilla profunda" (deep Seville), and it's a great place to hang out.
Contenedor, San Luis, 50. Eclectic decor and some of the best food in the city is found here; their venison (not normally my favorite dish) is absolutely spectacular. There's a self-operated antique card printing machine to help you remember the address for next time.
Eslava, Eslava, 3. Generally considered the best tapas bar in Seville, this one's so popular you'll have to come early to have any chance of elbowing your way into the crowded bar and back room; avoid the more formal restaurant area, as it's not worth the extra cost.
Mamarracha Tapas y Brasas,Hernando Colon, 1 - 3. It describes itself as having urbanite conceptual character. Whatever that is. I like the decor (urban, with a vertical garden) and the food (artichokes to die for, in season).
Las Salas, Almansa, 15. The food is very traditional but definitely above average in quality. This would be a great place for your first jamón (Spanish ham), tortilla, bull's cheeks, and other classics.
Taberna Peregil (La Goleta), Mateos Gago, 20. The signature drink is orange wine, made from rinds of the bitter, ornamental local oranges. The bar is also know for its snails and montaditos (little sandwiches).
Torres y Garcia, Harinas, 2 - 4. Stylish decor, seasonal menu, great food, and the place to see and be seen in Seville these days. Often my first-night-guests-are-in-town choice.
GARLOCHI
Bar de Copas (Drinks-only bar) for a Nightcap
Garlochi, Boteros 26. Famous for its over-the-top (some say sacrilegious) decor, this bar's signature drink is Sangre de Cristo (blood of Christ) served in a chalice. Diabolical hangover to follow.
Café L'Art, Pavia, 12. An upscale date-night and pick-up bar serving pricy drinks in elegant surroundings. The gin and tonic is a work of art.
The Second Room, Placentines 19. A nutty mix of plush and funky with fancy late-night drinks; owned by the brothers (one's my neighbor) who run Café L'Art.
An evening spent sampling tapas in various bars is one of the great pleasures of Seville. There are 3000 bars in the city, and every neighborhood has a dozen or so within easy strolling distance of one another.
Spanish beverages: What to drink in southern Spain, morning, noon and night Before I moved to Seville, I had a vague idea that everyone in Spain drank sangria and the kind of earthy red wines Hemmingway used to write about. I soon discovered ... Read more
EATING TAPAS LIKE A SEVILLANO Just about every neighborhood in Seville has half a dozen tapas bars within easy strolling distance. A traditional night out visiting tapas bars (known as a tapeo) starts around 9 pm and involves visiting three or four places, with a small, congenial group enjoying a drink (most often a short beer) and a tapa at each one. At the end of the evening, people often make a last stop in a bar de copas (drinks-only bar) for a nightcap.
