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HOHLI Bourbouristi / Snails in rosemary, CHANIA, CRETE

A recipe from my #1 Amazon bestseller The Great Mediterranean Comfort Food Tour
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"Karen’s tales remind us that sometimes the true reason we travel is to discover our own purpose, and that the places we visit in this world will forever become a part of our souls.”
​Sarah Gemba, Travel Designer @spainsavvytravel
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Rich wasn't entirely sure he'd love these snails; here he is having a glass of wine waiting for Yannis to serve them. The video below shows his reaction.

HOHLI BOURBOURISTI / SNAILS IN ROSEMARY
Yannis, proprietor of Perperas, Chania, Crete

Snails are everyday fare in Crete, the local equivalent of American burgers or British fish and chips. During the 40-day Lenten fast, when people are expected to refrain from eating meat, fish, even dairy, it’s OK to consume snails and shellfish; they’re exempt on the technicality of not having a backbone. It's customary to eat snails on Holy Thursday, which is when Yannis very kindly agreed to let me come into his kitchen and watch how he made hohli bourbouristi.


Rinse 30 large, clean snails in water, then dust them with a third of a cup of flour.

Pour a quarter of a cup of olive oil into a frying pan and set it on the burner.

As the oil warms, press the fleshy foot of each snail into salt then set it in the pan. “They go in ‘face down,’ as we say,” Yannis told me. “The name 
bourbouristi comes from the Cretan abouboura, which means ‘face down.’”

When the snails are sizzling, pull leaves off of two sprigs fresh rosemary and sprinkle them on top, adding a pinch of pepper.

Pour half a cup of strong red wine vinegar over everything, and let it cook for about three minutes until the liquid reduced to a thick sauce. Serve at once.


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For more details, see my post Holy Snail Day and watch the video below.



  • Start Here
  • My Blog
  • My Travel Books
    • My San Francisco >
      • SF BOOK CONTENTS
      • SF BOOK SAMPLE
    • GREAT MED COMFORT FOOD BOOK
    • MOVING TO SEVILLE
    • EASTERN EUROPE BY RAIL
    • PACK LIGHT
    • Seville's New Normal
  • FINDING HOPE
  • The Amigos Project
  • Cheap & Cheerful San Francisco
    • My Picks: Best of SF
  • Cozy Places to Eat in Seville
    • Romantic Restaurants
    • Tapas Bars
    • Cocktail Bars
    • Breakfast
    • Sweet Indulgences
  • The Nutters' Tour
  • Med Comfort Food Tour
  • Mediterranean Recipes
  • Dive Bars
  • Travel Tips
    • Packing
    • Enjoy the Best of Seville
  • About
    • PRESS
  • Contact