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Dazed and Confused in Dijon, France

9/22/2019

31 Comments

 
Dijon, France / Les Halles market / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
This Dijon vegetable seller's expression mirrors my own sentiments on attempting to come to grips with her city.

“I like my gingerbread covered with pâté de foie gras, accompanied by a nice white wine.” As Philippe sighed with pleasure at the memory, I thought: “I will never get this town.”
 
Dijon was the 36th city we’d stayed in during the last five months. Our Mediterranean Comfort Food Tour has taken us through Greece, North Macedonia, Kosovo, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Italy, and now France. It’s been tremendous fun, but there have been challenges, too. I’ve had to learn to read bus schedules in the Cyrillic and Greek alphabets. We’ve stayed in so many places with hazardous stairs that it’s a wonder all our limbs are still intact. And while generally the food has ranged from good to fabulous, we’ve  eaten a few dishes that we didn’t find easy, most especially the traditional raw horse meat served during race week in Asti, Italy.
 
None of that put me off my stride. But I have finally met my match in Dijon. 

The Wish-Granting Owl of Dijon, France / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
I tried everything to boost my luck in Dijon, including touching the city's unofficial talisman, the wish-granting owl on the side of Notre Dame church. Did it help? Not so's you'd notice.

Everyone assured us we’d love the food here, and Rich and I were eager to find a congenial spot to sample such local specialties as boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, and escargots de Bourgogne. On Day One, we set off at 12:30 in search of these culinary marvels, but every eatery we passed was either utterly lacking in charm or bore a hand-written sign informing us they were closed for vacation. After wandering around for more than an hour, we finally stumbled into a place that looked promising, but the staff reacted with stares of incomprehension, gallic shrugs, and shooing motions encouraging us to leave at once. This little scene was replicated in three other restaurants, leaving us as bewildered as we were famished.
 
It turns out that on weekdays in Dijon le déjeuner (lunch) is invariably served from 12:00 noon to 1:30 pm. Period. Who knew?
 
If it wasn’t for a large supermarket in a downtown department store and a really excellent all-hours kabob house around the corner, we would have starved to death.

Enjoying a taco in Dijon, France / Rich McCann / Photo by Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
Our favorite meal at the kebob place was the chicken "taco" with yogurt sauce.

​When we weren’t out grubbing around for food, we tried to take in the sights, but a remarkable amount of our time in Dijon was spent staring at locked doors and signs reading fermé (closed). Take Saturday, for instance. Philippe, our guide on a very entertaining food tour, told us how lucky we were to be there during European Heritage Days to enjoy free admission to all the museums, palaces, and historic monuments — plus there was a second-hand market. What fun! However, by the time the tour was over and we’d stopped back at the apartment for a short rest, we returned to the city center only discover the market dismantled and every one of the museums, palaces, and monuments closed and locked.
 
Despite such setbacks, we’ve managed to visit quite a few of the city’s most famous landmarks and enjoyed the city itself, especially the half-timbered houses, churches, and magnificent palaces built while the Dukes of Burgundy reigned there from the 9th century until 1477.


​On the food tour, Philippe introduced us to the city’s iconic mustard, its famous gingerbread, and the tradition of the 11:00 am aperitif, an alcoholic version of elevenses that included gougères (cheese puffs) and kir, a popular French cocktail of crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur) and white wine. At the colorful 19th century Les Halles Market, he showed us mouthwatering produce, cheese, meat, and poultry, including the famous blue-legged Bresse chickens sold with their heads still attached, a sign of quality intended to make it easier for you to fork over 28€ ($30) a kilo for what's said to be the most pricey chicken in Europe.
 
“Yes they are expensive. But if you eat this, you really taste chicken,” Philippe assured us.
 
The market’s central café, La Buvette, was jammed, yet Philippe somehow contrived to find us seats and produce platters of Beaufort cheese, salami, ham, bread, pickles, and a glass of delicious Macon chardonnay.


​On the tour, we’d learned that in Dijon one sits down to dinner between 7:00 and 7:30 pm. Armed with a recommendation from Philipe, Rich and I presented ourselves at an eatery called Dr. Wine promptly at 7:00. All the tables were reserved, the headwaiter informed us, but we could eat in the garden if we promised to leave before a late booking got there at 9:00. Wait, what? You could eat at 9:00 in this town?
 
I have to admit, Dr. Wine’s food was very good indeed, served in small plates like the heartier kind of Spanish tapas. We started with escargots de Bourgogne, the famous Burgundy snails cooked with garlic, butter, and herbs. Our appetizer included six jumbo snails, a complicated metal grasping tool, and a delicate fork. It was all going well (by which I mean we hadn’t disgraced ourselves by sending any snails flying onto nearby tables) until I tried to eat my last escargot. I could see it, huddled in the inner depths of the shell, but the combined efforts of Rich, a passing waiter, and myself weren’t sufficient to winkle out the little critter.

​“Maybe the hour for eating snails has expired,” Rich suggested. No doubt that was the case. I let it rest in peace.
 
Next we ate slivers of bread topped with two kinds of heavenly cheese, fresh apricots, and a bit of apricot preserve. This was followed by the famous boeuf bourguignon, a hearty beef stew simmered in the region’s trademark red wine. I’ve had this dish before, and Dr. Wine’s was by far the smoothest, richest version I’d ever tasted. 

Dr. Wine restaurant / Dijon, France / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
Dr. Wine's escargot, bread topped with cheese with apricot, and boeuf bourguignon were a real treat.

“OK, I'm finally beginning to warm to this town,” I told Rich.
 
“Don’t get attached,” he said. “We’re off to Paris in a few days.”  
 
Yes, time is getting short. We’re now on the final leg of our long journey, and after a whirlwind visit to the City of Lights, we’ll head south to Spain by rail. Due to the fast pace of the days ahead, I'm posting this earlier in the week than usual. We arrive in Seville on Saturday, which happens to be the day before my birthday.
 
Whew! It’s been quite a ride.
 
Once we’re home, I’m planning some serious down time, so don’t expect another post next week, or possibly the week after. Rich and I want to thank all of you so very much for joining us on  the journey. Knowing you’re out there enjoying the stories and the recipes has inspired us every step of the way.

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31 Comments
Susan Jackson
9/23/2019 01:08:08 pm

How wonderful, I ate cooked horsemeat in Germany once and felt illenoughto go home from work--no way I would eat any raw meat--you are brave souls

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:32:50 pm

Susan, your horse meat incident sounds way worse than ours! So sorry to hear your were ill. In our case, it was one of those situations where we didn't know how to refuse without giving offense, and we were so grateful to be there we didn't want to risk it. But I certainly don't intend to make it a regular part of my diet!

Reply
Jackie Smith link
9/23/2019 03:02:05 pm

Whew. . .what a food fest you have had! Can't believe so many months and miles have passed since you were here in The Mani. Safe travels. . .and happy dieting! ;-)

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:35:46 pm

You're so right, Jackie; it has been quite a food fest. Rich and I often talk about all the fun we had with you and Joel in the Mani Peninsula. You're the best hosts! As for dieting, it seems we've been walking so much, and eating so light in between feasts, that we haven't gained much, if any, weight. And even if we had, it would have been worth it!

Reply
Kim Day
9/23/2019 05:01:38 pm

What an adventure. you have had!!! I have to admit feeling tired by proxy.
You have earned your few weeks of rest as you "go dark" and recuperate. I and all your other readers will just have to wait patiently for your next post as you cash in on your well earned right to a break.
Happy Birthday dear Karen.

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:38:02 pm

Thanks so much for your kind words and your understanding, Kim. Rich and I rarely feel tired when we're traveling — too much else to think about — but as we head homeward we do start feeling the need for some down time in a familiar setting. Just a few more days on the road and then we're home for a while. And that will be grand!

Reply
sandra
9/23/2019 05:02:10 pm

Can't wait to see you guys!

Hope the Parisians will be more welcoming than the Dijonnais but I wouldn't count on it!

Come back to Sevilla where we see more smiles and less blase shrugs!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:40:41 pm

Sandra, we can't wait to see you guys, and are really looking forward to the chance to catch up properly over a bottle of vino. As for the French, the Parisians have been a bit more welcoming than the Dijonnais, but that was such a low bar... Anyway, I am beginning to understand some of your thoughts about your home country in a whole new way. Just one more topic to add to list of stuff to talk about. Hasta pronto, amiga!

Reply
Andrea Murphy
9/23/2019 05:14:36 pm

I love this post Karen. So funny. You have had quite the adventure.
We miss you both!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:42:28 pm

So glad you liked the post, Andrea! Yes, it's been quite an adventure. And I know you and Matt and Jane are jumping into a different kind of exciting adventure with the new house getting underway. Can't wait to see you guys and find out all the details. Good luck! Send photos, please!

Reply
Lynn McBride link
9/23/2019 05:15:44 pm

Hmm—you should have come to Beaune. It’s not too late!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:43:00 pm

Probably too late for this trip, Lynn, but we've got it on the list for the future. Thanks for the thought!

Reply
Tracy
9/23/2019 05:19:59 pm

Karen and Rich,
It's been so much fun following you along on this trip. The 5 months went quickly, and your posts were really entertaining.
Have a safe trip to Seville, and thanks for all the fun in the past 5 months. It's been great!!!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:45:27 pm

Thanks for joining us on the journey, Tracy. It was so great knowing you and our other readers were following along with us every step of the way. And I have lots more stories that I couldn't fit into the blog posts, so watch for updates!

Reply
Colleen Wright
9/23/2019 05:38:59 pm

I’ve so enjoyed your summer of traveling! I was brave to eat horse eat in Bruges a few years ago and I survived. Lots of ewes from my fellow travel mates! Happy Birthday and enjoy your down time back in Seville.

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:50:21 pm

Thanks for you kind words and birthday wishes! As for eating horse meat, I can understand your travel mates' reaction. My mother loved riding horses and I am sure she is turning in her grave. But trying regional delicacies is one of the adventures of traveling, and in a small way I believe it brings you closer to the community you're visiting. So I say good for you, Colleen!

Reply
Kim Murphey
9/23/2019 05:39:01 pm

Karen,
Thank you for sharing your travels and eating adventures. It’s been an amazing “trip” following along. Happy Birthday to you. Best in your rest.

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:52:06 pm

So glad you came along (vitually) on this long journey with us, Kim. It's been an astonishing ride, and now I am looking forward to a bit of rest. After that, I hope to try actually making a few of these dishes in my own kitchen. Should be fun! I'll post updates.

Reply
Duane Roggow
9/23/2019 06:21:04 pm

We Loved this trip. Dijon was for us, much like your experience, confounding. Opening and closing times were, indeed, "Up in the air" and hospitality hit or miss. In the end, we loved the city and did find a good restaurant as well. Thanks for taking us on this magnificent trip!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:55:17 pm

So it wasn't just us? Dijon really is that maddening? Duane, I feel so much better knowing you guys had a similar experience. Like you, I did end up loving the city — one of the most beautiful I have ever seen (and that is saying something!). But it was challenging every step of the way. Thanks for joining us on that part of the journey, and all the rest of it as well.

Reply
bradley balles
9/23/2019 06:24:34 pm

when do you burn the clothes?

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:56:09 pm

Don't need to, Brad. I think they're on the verge of dissolving all on their own. Just hope the threads hold together a few more days...

Reply
Jean Bush
9/23/2019 08:13:41 pm

I'm guessing that the trains from Paris to Sevilla will be very direct...no Eat With dinners along the way!

There really is no room like your own! However it has been so fun to read of the rooms, the meals, the quirky tours and personalities in your odyssey of gastronomy and culture !

And yes, let us know when you burn the clothes!

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 04:59:28 pm

Yes, we smell the barn now, Jean, and will go more or less directly to Seville. We are connecting with friends here in Paris, and seeing others for dinner in Barcelona, and we may squeeze in a night of paella in Valencia, because you know how Rich is into his paella. But no EatWith dinners, and I'm not even going to try to talk my way into any restaurant kitchens. Kind of relaxing to be on official time off!

Reply
Phyllis Thomas
9/24/2019 03:27:22 am

Karen, I've loved following you two on your food and culture adventures. Just noticed the fun series of pictures at the top of this page and it recalls so many of your entries. Yes, you need to rest up at home for a bit. Thanks so much for sharing and maybe opening our worlds a bit wider.

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 05:02:05 pm

So happy to hear you've enjoyed connecting with our stories and our journey, Phyllis. It's been great knowing that you and our other readers have been following along at every stop along the way. And I truly appreciate what you said about "maybe opening our worlds a bit wider." The trip has certainly opened up my world in new ways, and if I can pass any of that along, I'm delighted.

Reply
Heidi
9/24/2019 10:07:41 am

Love!! Looking forward to seeing you both.

Reply
Karen McCann
9/24/2019 05:03:42 pm

Thanks, Heidi! We're so looking forward to getting home to Seville, seeing you guys, and returning to something approximating normal life. Hasta luego!

Reply
Kitty
9/24/2019 07:28:10 pm

It has been a marvelous journey for me too. I seem to get the same feeling you got in Dijon when I am ready to go home.
Happy Birthday! Cheers, Kitty

Reply
Karen McCann
9/25/2019 06:14:58 am

Thanks, so much! Yes, you are so right, heading for home after a trip always raises a host of complex emotions, including feelings of being dazed and confused. I suspect I'll feel that way for the next few weeks as I stumble through the re-entry process. But the travel has been great and writing about it has been very satisfying. And I really appreciate all your comments along the way, Kitty! There's more fun to come in the future, so stay tuned.

Reply
Jacquie Kowalsky
10/2/2019 01:13:56 pm

First off, Happy Belated Birthday Karen!! It was last Sunday, the 28th.
Wow! Where do I start? Well, firstly, a huge “Congratulations”!! You’ve outdone yourselves on this one! You know that I always enjoy reading your posts and have done so for the past umpteen years, however, as a serious foodie as I am, I must say that these comfort food trip stories have been amazing! Really loved and enjoyed reading them. The last time I saw you we were in a bar (holding our red wines – LOL, of course!) on c/ Harinas and you were telling me about this idea you had for a long time and wanted to do. I remember I was so excited to hear about your plan. Ooohhhh, nothing beats good ‘ole fashioned home cooked comfort food! Welcome back home! I’d love to talk about food and drink with you over a nice glass of wine! Hope to see you soon! XX

Reply



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    ​Winner of the 2023 Firebird Book Award for Travel
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    Karen McCann
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