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Finding hope

Digging Deep for Info on the Happiest, Least Popular Cities

7/7/2021

 
“You’re not going to believe this,” Rich said. “I just googled the Museum of Local History in Fremont and this is the first photo.” Peering over his shoulder at the screen, I saw an old wooden board studded with small holes.
 
Fremont & San Jose: America's Happiest Cities / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
One of the top exhibits at the Museum of Local History in Fremont. Can't wait to see it! Photo: Kawo Lee

“Hey,” I said, “isn’t that the same board the exterminator photographed under our house to show the beetle infestation?

Home Improvements / Fremont & San Jose: America's Happiest Cities / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
I know, right? Another old wooden board, studded with small holes, dating back to 1900. The resemblance is uncanny.

We were researching next week’s road trip to Fremont and San Jose, which ranked first and fifth respectively on the list of America’s happiest cities while being two of the least popular tourist destinations in California, possibly on the planet. As a travel writer, I’m an old hand at digging up fascinating facts about obscure places — want to hear about my six favorite towns in Albania? — but even so, I was floundering.
 
People often ask me how I learn about the weird places we visit. I explain that once potential destinations come to my attention — in this case, by their high ranking on the happiness index and close proximity — I first consult Wikipedia for general background. I soon learned Fremont was formed in the 1950s by five old small towns fearful of being swallowed up by their fast-growing neighbor Hayward. Fremont’s planners preserved landmarks such as Mission San José and silent-era movie lots where Charlie Chaplin got his start, but nobody bothered to create a central downtown. “How do you go there,” Rich complained, “when there’s no there there?”

Fremont & San Jose: America's Happiest Cities / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
This arial view of downtown Fremont shows why it's so often described as "sprawling." Photo: Silicon Valley Business Journal

​San Jose, as I knew from my childhood, was the hub of a large farming community for centuries. Then by sheer geographic accident — being the only city nearby when the tech explosion hit — it became the unofficial capital of Silicon Valley. Wikipedia informed me the San Jose Metropolitan Area has, per capita, the most millionaires and billionaires in the US and the world’s third highest GDP, not to mention the nation’s most expensive housing market.
 
After that little flurry of discovery, the trail went cold. Even Triposo, the travel app that had guided us through such lesser-known spots as Cagliari, Sardinia and Šiauliai , Lithuania, made no mention of Fremont or San Jose. Amazon listed no guide books. EatWith offered no in-home dining experiences. We were on our own.
 
Luckily, a few stalwart travel writers have visited and published articles such as 12 Top-Rated Attractions & Things to Do in Fremont, featuring lots of nature walks and a few historic buildings, most of which are closed due to Covid. I knew we were in trouble when one of Fremont’s 12 Top-Rated Attractions turned out to be viewing the Dumbarton Bridge. Despite what you see in this heavily photo-shopped image, the bridge is graceless, drab, and as people point out on Trip Advisor, often jammed with traffic and smelling like a sewer. “It’s just a bridge,” commented Bart C. “For goodness sake, I don't know why some of these mundane things are listed as ‘attractions.’” Me neither, Bart!

Fremont & San Jose: America's Happiest Cities / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
The Dumbarton Bridge isn't its real name (officially it doesn't have one) and this isn't really how it looks (unless you're on mind-altering drugs and/or PhotoShop).

​“The Dumbarton Bridge? Seriously?” said Rich. “What’ll we do after that? Tour a Walmart? We don’t have to stay more than one day in Fremont, do we?”
 
“See if there’s any kind of history museum,” I suggested. “People have been in the area since the Ohlone hunted there in 4000 BC; somebody must have collected some old stuff and old stories.” And that’s when we found the Local History Museum in Fremont. At first glance, it looked slightly less glamorous than the Dumbarton Bridge.
But then I got to thinking: could artifacts and photos covering the last three centuries of everyday life provide clues about how Fremont became the happiest city in America? The museum is only open a few days a month, and to my astonishment one of them coincides with our visit. What are the odds?
 
That was about it for museums and attractions, so next I googled “diners,” and here Fremont came up aces. Some are family-run slices of Americana that look like the kind of places where the waitress would call you “hon” and freely dispense her views on why Fremont was or wasn’t the happiest town in the US. Many eateries are owned by Asians, who make up 57% of city’s population, and the online photos of mu shu chicken and tikka masala are drool-inducing. Clearly we’ll have to eat at least five meals a day while we’re there.
​
Fremont & San Jose: America's Happiest Cities / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
The family-owned Classic Diner has been serving Fremont since 1994. Can it live up to its claim to have the best burgers and shakes in town? Photo: Daniel E Brown

Meanwhile, the San Jose research was proving considerably easier. As I mentioned, there’s no comprehensive guidebook, but if you want to locate the oddball stuff (and I do), there’s the delightful Secret San Jose: A Guide to the Weird, Wonderful and Obscure. It showed where to find Beethoven’s hair (strands were cut off at his death as a memento), a haunted Chuck E. Cheese (the franchise started in San Jose), and a plant converting sewage into perfectly safe drinking water (nope, I’m not going to sample it).

​
I consulted another trusty resource, 
Meetup, which connects individuals who share an interest, but of course, most were inactive due to Covid. For instance, no upcoming events were listed for the Bay Area Ghost Hunters meetup, “a networking group for the free flow of paranormal information … Skepticism is appreciated, but close-mindedness is not.” When I googled walking tours I found even slimmer pickings, and Rich is flatly refusing to consider the Zombie Scavenger Hunt.
​
Picture
Looking at these survivors of one Zombie Scavenger Hunt, I have to agree Rich may have a point.

​In European cities, the cathedral is the center point of any community, so I looked up San Jose’s. Originally a smaller church built in 1803, St. Joseph’s was damaged by earthquakes in 1818 and 1822, was entirely rebuilt, then collapsed during the 1868 earthquake, was entirely rebuilt again, then burned down in 1875. Do you feel God is trying to send a message here? Yes, it’s been rebuilt once more and I may visit, but at the first hint of smoke or trembling underfoot, I’m out of there.
 
The fact is, I don’t have any clear plan for the trip. And that’s a good thing. My research is helpful in pointing me in the direction of interesting stuff, but I’ve learned I get the most fun out of travel by simply showing up, wandering around soaking up atmosphere, chatting with a few random people, and letting events unfold in their own good time. Not having a set schedule, I can linger over sights that interest me — Beethoven’s hair, perhaps, and almost certainly that board in the Local Museum of History (who’d miss a chance to see that?). And I know I’ll spend time perched on diner stools, savoring bottomless cups of coffee and possibly Burmese pan fried dumplings. But no matter how relaxed the pace, I can absolutely guarantee I will not be making time to stand around gazing admiringly at the Dumbarton Bridge. I have my standards!

Picture
This is what the Dumbarton Bridge actually looks like.

On The Road Again!
I won't be writing a post next week as Rich and I will be traveling around trying to figure out why Fremont and San Jose rate so high on the happiness index. I expect to have plenty to say the following week!

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Jan Mills
7/7/2021 05:03:23 pm

I believe the Rosacrucian Museum is in San Jose. I’ve been with the kids a few times and found it enjoyable. Take a picnic. The grounds are lovely and refreshing. It’s small. A couple of hours at the most. The tour is good. And there used to be a Starbucks right across the street. https://egyptianmuseum.org/

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 01:52:28 am

You're so right, Jan, the Rosicrucian Museum is a must see; some truly oddball stuff in there! Rich and I visited in 2017 and thoroughly enjoyed it. We'll have to skip it this time around, as it's only open a few days a week at the moment and those dates don't coincide with our visit. But I'm so glad you brought it up, and I hope my readers take heed. It is one of San Jose's offbeat gems.

Tracy
7/7/2021 08:47:34 pm

And to think of all the times I crossed that bridge and neglected to appreciate its standing as one of Fremont's main attractions! I was in teary laughter as I read this post, Karen. Thanks for the hysterical writing!
As to San Jose and its being the home of huge wealth and numero 5 on the Happiness List...makes you wonder about the "money can't buy happiness" saying, doesn't it?

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 01:55:38 am

I think we're all going to look at the Dumbarton bridge with fresh eyes now, Tracy! As for Sam Jose's wealth, my sister always says "Money doesn't buy happiness but it does let you make a downpayment on it." Actually, I think the reality is that money lets you eliminate some sources of misery, like scrounging your next meal, but it certainly doesn't catapult you into nirvana. Hopefully I'll know more after this visit. I'll keep you posted!

Tobey Hiller
7/7/2021 09:18:40 pm

This should prove an interesting trip, perhaps unearthing the real sources of happiness. Speaking of which, it would be interesting to know on what basis—what kinds of measures, who got asked etc.—the study in which Fremont & San Jose did so well based their conclusions, (Too lazy to look it up myself…). Anyway, can’t wait to hear your impressions of the happiness quotients of Fremonters & San Joseains.

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 02:04:50 am

You make a good point, Tobey, and I'll try to find room in the next post for something on the methodology. I know they had three main categories 1) Emotional & Physical Well-Being, 2) Income & Employment and 3) Community & Environment. They also drew on reports such as "Happy People Live Longer: Subjective Well-Being Contributes to Health and Longevity." It all sounds pretty good, although the name of the organization sponsoring the study, WalletHub, doesn't exactly inspire confidence in the intellectual rigor of the endeavor. I guess I need to find out more about WalletHub, too. I'll provide updates as new info becomes available!

Alicia Bay Laurel link
7/7/2021 11:01:41 pm

The San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles is a lovely little fabric art museum. It featured my 1974 crazy quilt wall-hanging in one of its shows in 2010 - 2011, and begged me to leave it to them in my will.

And there's this somewhat bizarre tourist stop in San Jose, of which I've heard stories but not seen:

https://www.winchestermysteryhouse.com/

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 02:10:25 am

The Quilts and Textiles museum sounds like good fun, although I am not sure I'll be able to convince Rich to put it on the top of the list for this first visit. As for the Winchester Mystery House, it's actually a fascinating oddity. Rich and I visited in 2017, and I wrote about it: "Strip away the hype and legends surrounding the Winchester Mystery House, and it’s still a very odd place. Doors open onto walls or sheer drops, stairs lead nowhere, secret passages run everywhere." Yes, it's touristy now, but in its heyday, and even now, there's a crazed pathology that makes you shiver. For more, check out my post on roadside attractions: https://www.enjoylivingabroad.com/my-blog/our-magical-mystery-tour-of-californias-roadside-attractions

Bill Kimball
7/7/2021 11:13:02 pm

Hi Karen: In 1970 I met Margo Harvey, a lovely lady and big time farmer whose vegitable crops were planted on 100s of acres in Fremont. She told me about how Fremont also had the best vegetable stand run by a sweet old fellow right at the edge of her property. After buying from him, everyday, for over 20 years, one morning, at 4am, she discovered him picking all his produce from her fields. When confronted by her, he acknowledged he had been doing this all his life and had no inventory cost. She wasn't sure whether to laugh or cry. Maybe this is why Fremont is still a happy place: It had a wonderful pioneering woman farmer with a sense of humor that carries over to today. Carry on Karen - love your stories and sense of humor also. Bill

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 02:13:02 am

Bill, I love this zany story! I can see how she felt; do you laugh or cry? Sue the guy or invite him to Thanksgiving dinner? Margo Harvey sounds like a great character, and I will certainly see if the Museum of Local History has any info or photos of her. Thanks for your kind words and encouragement, Bill. Always great to hear from you!

Faye
7/8/2021 12:27:21 am

Nothing could entice me to go there but enjoyed the “list of punishments” photo. Used to like Eggo waffles so glad I know where they were “born”. And “nope” to the water from sewage!

Maybe they enjoy the simple life without too many accoutrements, just loving and enjoying what they do have. What is it about us that keeps us wanting more? The “it’s never enough syndrome”? That must be about creativity and evolution.

Karen McCann
7/8/2021 02:17:53 am

Faye, I really think you're on to something with the idea that the "wanting more" syndrome keeps people from being happy. The folks in the Nordic countries often talk about "reasonable expectations" and "being happy with what you have" and striving for "work-life balance." One American author scorned that philosophy, saying it "stifled ambition." But I believe those Noridic countries are on to something. And I plan to spend the next year exploring the topic from various angles, through various road trips. Whatever I find out, I'll share with you here!

Faye
7/10/2021 07:41:17 pm

“Morning Brew” newsletter/publication has good article on “happiest” and “unhappiest” countries in the world. Many unhappy places which makes me appreciate my country and sad for those who live in unhappy counties.


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