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How (and Why) to Blowtorch Your Dinner

7/6/2022

10 Comments

 
Picture
Yurts have been around for 3000 years, and so have some of the cooking methods used by their owners.

​“Congratulations! I think you’ve managed to find the blandest food on the planet,” I remarked to Rich as we hurtled down the highway. “It says here they mostly eat plain boiled mutton, with no seasoning. If they’re feeling frisky they might cook up the bones, fat, organs, and head of the sheep in horse’s milk with root vegetables and salt. Apparently they put salt in everything, including the tea.”
 
We were heading to a hole-in-the-wall said to serve genuine Mongolian food. “Big deal," you may be thinking. "I’ve eaten at one of those Mongolian Barbecue Pits — they’re all over America!”

It turns out those slightly kitschy stir-fry palaces have nothing to do with Mongolia — or barbecue, for that matter. The so-called Mongolian BBQ trend started in 1951, when comedian Wu Zhaonan fled from Beijing to Taiwan during the Chinese Civil War. To survive, he opened a food stall and called it Mongolian because he knew his preferred name, Beijing Barbecue, was too politically sensitive; his home town had just been declared the capital of Communist China, Taiwan's enemy. His food stall was a huge hit until it was wiped out in a typhoon, at which point he gave up cooking to pursue a successful career as a stand-up comedian. Others picked up on the popularity of “Mongolian barbecue” and ran with it.

Picture
A so-called "Mongolian Grill" in Texas. Photo: Luna 715
 
​So it turns out very few people outside of Mongolia itself have actually tasted the real deal. Rich heard about an authentic place in nearby Richmond, and as we drove there, I was skimming Lonely Planet’s guide. My first impression? Mongolian food wasn’t going to take the culinary world by storm.
 
“If you get a chance,” advised the guide, “don’t miss the opportunity to try boodog, blowtorched marmot (prairie dog), a delicacy of the steppes.”
 
“Tell me I’m not going to eat blowtorched prairie dog,” I said to Rich.
 
“No, no. This place’s big specialty is khorkhog.” It’s pronounced “whore-hog,” which I felt was unlikely to enhance its popularity. “You start,” he continued, “by killing a sheep.”
 
“Tell me I’m not going to be killing a sheep.”
 
“You put chunks of sheep meat into a pot with horse milk and root vegetables, and cook it a long time. It has to be ordered in advance, so we won’t be having it today.” I managed to contain my disappointment at this news.
​
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To make khorkhog and other dishes, including boodog (blowtorched prarie dog), rocks are heated in the fire then added to the meat to help it cook. When it's time to eat, you pass the hot, greasy rocks from hand to hand. It's supposed to be good for your health. How? Still researching this.
 
​“The place we’re going is called Dumpling House,” Rich said.
 
“I’m always up for dumplings. Will there be vodka?”
 
“Why?”
 
“Lonely Planet says it’s traditional to interrupt meals for rounds of vodka. Apparently before taking a swig, I’m supposed to dip my left ring finger into the vodka, flick it in the air four times to honor the sky gods in the four cardinal directions, and then wipe my finger across my forehead.”
 
Mongolian eating obvious had its exotic side, and by now I was imagining Dumpling House as a smoky yurt with a colorful door, surrounded by vast open plains and herds of sturdy horses and nervous sheep. This is what I found.


On the positive side, a restaurant in a strip mall was unlikely to require customers to do their own butchering or blowtorching. I climbed out of the car and went inside, only to find the place completely empty.
 
Eventually a woman appeared, and for a short time confusion reigned. Once I’d gotten the hang of her accent, and she’d gotten over her shock at seeing non-Mongolians on the premises, we got down to business.
 
I asked about various dumplings, all of which seemed to be deep fat fried. This was unwelcome news, as I was trying to eat a little healthier than usual; my annual physical was looming on the horizon, and I was hoping to avoid awkward conversations about my cholesterol. Finally she said, “Momo?” And pointed to a picture of doughy steamed blobs; the description included the world “vegetable.”
 
“Momo,” I agreed. “And two beers.” Making a heroic effort not to imply in any way that I was a complete blockhead, she pointed to the drinks list, from which alcohol was conspicuously absent. “OK,” I said, “Ice tea.”
 
She disappeared back into the kitchen.

Picture
Don't have a pot handy? In Mongolia, it's common to hollow out an animal skin, stuff it with meat and hot rocks from the fire, wire it shut, and use a blowtorch to singe away the fur and cook the meat inside. Any strong flame will do; in the olden days, they used torches made from sticks.

​“How am I going to honor the sky gods?” I asked Rich. “Somehow finger flicking with iced tea doesn’t feel right.”
 
Over the next half hour, the restaurant slowly filled with people, all of whom wore ordinary American clothes but had the kind of rugged faces that suggested they could easily have ridden in across the steppes on horseback with their hunting eagles.

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Mongolian burkitshi have been using eagles to hunt small mammals for 4000 years. Today, they still do it wearing traditional clothing. Photo: National Geographic

​When a middle-aged couple escorted a fragile-looking old man to the corner table, the head cook came out to greet them. She was magnificent, a stocky woman who walked with the ponderous grace of a sumo wrestler and surveyed her queendom with a stern eye. I could easily imagine her gutting a sheep with one hand while blowtorching a meat-stuffed animal skin with the other.
 
At last the iced tea arrived. I took a sip; it was loaded with sugar and lightly laced with salt. I was still reeling from that flavor sensation when the food showed up. Six giant white blobs squatted on the platter, accompanied by a sort of tangy coleslaw and a little pot of hot sauce. I picked up my fork and carved out a bite of the momo's dense boiled dough, which somehow managed to be both fluffy and chewy. Eventually I found the filling, a walnut-sized glob of stewed onion, cabbage, and potato.

Picture
One momo each was all Rich and I could manage; we took the rest to go.

​“Whatever you do,” Rich gasped in the strangled tone of one who has just regained the power of speech, “do not try the hot sauce.”
 
I would love to be able to tell you that real Mongolian cuisine is marvelous, and it is — for those raised on it. This was hearty fare, skillfully prepared. What it lacked in gourmet seasoning it more than made up for in protein and carbs — a practical diet for the harsh life of the steppes. You need something stronger than arugula and veggie burgers when you drive herds across the Gobi Desert on days when it's twenty below zero. Everyone around me was tucking in to their dinner with enormous enthusiasm.
 
“We should come back,” Rich said. I stared at him in astonishment. He added, “This is a meat culture. What were we thinking, ordering vegetables? We should try the khorkhog.”

Picture
Khorkhog is a meal that will really stick to your ribs.

“But the menu says it contains nine to ten pounds of meat,” I protested. “I can barely get through one momo. Why don’t you bring your Navy buddies here?”
​
Rich was delighted with the idea and is planning to pitch it to the guys; this manly meal seems right up their alley. As for me, I confess I’ll be happy skipping this particular culinary adventure. Rich has agreed to take photos and provide a full report; I’ll share the highlights in a future blog post. Meanwhile, if you find authentic Mongolian cuisine in your neck of the woods, try it and tell me how you like it — and whether you think it will become America’s next comfort food craze. 

Сайхан хооллоорой (Click to hear this Mongolian version of bon appétit.)

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10 Comments
Nancy Solak
7/6/2022 05:04:49 pm

Well, the language (at least, Buon appetito!), sounds lovely. Adding that was a nice touch.

Reply
Karen McCann
7/6/2022 07:51:22 pm

Glad you liked it, Nancy. I thought it was fun. According to Google, phonetically it's written "Saihan hoollooroi" but to me the audio sounds nothing like that. I love the sound of it in Mongolian.

Reply
Lois
7/6/2022 05:45:57 pm

Loved your take on Mongolian cuisine!

Reply
Karen McCann
7/6/2022 07:53:33 pm

Thanks, Lois. It was a journey of discovery for me!

Reply
Laurie Rodney
7/7/2022 03:05:43 am

My personal favorite is Rich trying the hot sauce. I suppose it is an essential for the otherwise bland diet (and another way to keep warm?) Karen, your writing ALWAYS makes me smile. Thank you for sharing it with all of us.

Reply
Karen McCann
7/7/2022 05:48:19 pm

Thanks, Laurie! Yes, the hot sauce just about blew off the top of Rich's head; I'm only sorry I didn't think to grab the camera. As you point out, a little of that sauce would probably keep you warm through an entire Mongolian winter. So practical!

Reply
Vera Marie Badertscher link
7/7/2022 03:39:28 am

My husband and I took the escalator up the hill in Hong Kong to a street that was a United Nations of restaurants. We decided to choose one that we wouldn’t be running into in a strip mall at home. Mongolian won out. Obviously strip malls have come a long way. I don’t remember the meal—it was 30 years ago— but do know it was quite meaty.

Reply
Karen McCann
7/7/2022 05:54:05 pm

You and your husband are very adventurous eaters, to try Mongolian food in Hong Kong. Meaty is the word — whether it was the real deal or the Mongolian BBQ-style eating invented by Wu Zhaonan. Both styles give you plenty of fuel for the journey. Thanks for sharing that story, Vera.

Reply
Heather link
7/18/2022 06:51:56 am

Woah! That's a heap of meat.

My favourite Nepalese restaurant have momo on the menu. Without fail every time we order them (which is often) they gently remind us that this dish takes time and are we sure. Oh yes, we are sure - the wait is well worth it and now thanks to you Karen I have the right words to describe them - fluffy and chewy!

Reply
Kate
7/18/2022 05:48:04 pm

Another wonderful post! I can't say that I personally would want to try this particular cuisine, but I know my Dad would have wanted to go purely to be there with Rich and the gang.

Reply



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