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Our Mediterranean Comfort Food Tour

4/8/2019

26 Comments

 
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We leave by train April 20 and expect to be on the road four months or more.

​Every once in a while, my husband has an idea so brilliant it’s breathtaking. “Let’s move to Spain for a year,” was one; and 14 years later we’re still here in Seville. “Why not try travel without any luggage at all?” was another, and although it took him 20 years to convince me to give it a go, he was right, it was amazing. And last April, he did it again.
 
We were sitting in a café, floating possibilities for our next multi-month railway journey. Our short list included Greece, the Balkans, and various regions along the Adriatic coast we had yet to explore.
 
Out of nowhere Rich said, “Have you noticed that every time you write about food, your readers love it? What if we made that the theme of the trip? Everybody likes Mediterranean food, right?”
 
And just like that, the trip took shape in my mind. “We’ll call it the Mediterranean Comfort Food Tour,” I said. “Travel by train and ferry around the Mediterranean rim, sampling some of the world’s best cooking in its native habitat.”
 
“I’m in!”
 
“We’ll explore local culture through the cuisine,” I went on. “Food always has an interesting backstory, one that tells you a lot about the people who eat it.”
 
“You had me at comfort food,” said Rich.


​As you can imagine, just about everyone we know has suggestions about the itinerary. “You’ll be going to Istria, of course,” a friend said to me. “Where?” She looked at me pityingly. “Northern Croatia’s truffle country.” Did I even know they had truffles in Croatia? She went on, “There’s a little restaurant, it’s not easy to get to, but the food ….” She trailed off, rolling her eyes heavenward in blissful memory. Rich said, “Make a note of that one!”
 
Lots of people ask what we mean by comfort food. To me — and to Miriam-Webster’s dictionary — it’s “food prepared in a traditional style having a usually nostalgic or sentimental appeal.” It’s the stuff that makes you feel warm and cozy, well-fed and nurtured: your mom’s chicken soup, the homemade cookies grandpa always brought to holiday dinners, your favorite take-out for stay-home movie nights.
 
The warm, fuzzy, feel-good sensation is universal, but the specifics vary wildly. For instance, in the UK, Australia, and New Zealand, marmite (a sticky, dark brown, salty food paste) is happily smeared on toast in millions of homes, a fact that’s incomprehensible to those of us not raised on the stuff. Elvis Presley lived on grilled peanut butter and banana sandwiches. Sofia Loren attributed her famous figure to spaghetti, noting it “can be eaten most successfully if you inhale it like a vacuum cleaner.”

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Actress Sofia Loren, enjoying a plate of pasta

Some take a darker view of comfort food, defining it as harmful substances we binge on when life becomes so unbearable the only way we can cope is to abuse our bodies. As one Huffington Post article put it, in what I consider the most revolting metaphor of the year, “it’s a dietary bandage we’ve all used.” Yuck, no! The author goes on to say, “In the U.S. we understand that when someone is stuffing their face with French fries and doughnuts it’s a signifier for, ‘I’m overwhelmed, please avoid eye contact.’” And this, I think, underscores the difference between American and European attitudes toward food. Just last night I was with European friends, and we all dived happily into a plate of perfectly prepared fried potatoes, commenting with pleasure on the delightful flavor and texture. Living in Spain, I have learned to regard food as a friend, not an enemy, a science experiment, or a test of my willpower.
 
“I assume all the clothes you’re packing will have elastic waistbands,” a friend commented.
 
Rich said cheerfully, “We expect to double our body weight.”
 
“And we’ll be so contented we won’t care,” I added. But the fact is, I don’t really expect I’ll gain much weight. Our plan is not to eat more food than usual, just to choose different kinds based on their meaning in the local culture.
 
And of course, not all traditional comfort food is fattening. We recently had lunch with a friend who hails from Crete, not far from the remains of Knossos, “Europe’s oldest city,” which we'd decided was the logical jumping-off place for our trip. As he spread a map of Crete on the table, I asked him, “What comfort foods are popular around there?”
 
A smile lit up his face. “Hohli bourbouristi.” Huh? “Snails cooked in rosemary,” he explained. “Look, there is a recipe on the back of the map.” He flipped it over to show a photo of glistening snails, three recipes, and general culinary advice for visitors. 

“Great map,” I commented. “Where did you get it?”
 
He grinned. “At McDonald’s.”

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In Crete, snails are a beloved comfort food.

I like a plate of snails now and then, and while I can safely say that I won’t eat enough of them to double my body weight, I am happy to have the recipe. In fact, one of my goals for the trip is to post recipes for as many comfort foods as possible. I’ve been making lists of local specialties I'll seek out: Greek yogurt with honey and walnuts, Kalamata olives, feta cheese, those Croatian truffles, tiramisu, prosciutto, Prosecco, croissants…
 
And while I would love to promise I’ll be sharing closely guarded culinary secrets learned directly from master chefs and ancient grandmothers, I suspect many recipes I post will be from online resources. I’ve set up a page on this website called “Comfort Recipes” where I’ll post recipes of foods we try on the journey, plus Comfort Food to Cook on the Road, dishes whose preparation requires few ingredients and the kind of basic utensils you'd find in a rental apartment kitchen. If there's an oven in our Airbnb, I'll likely be making Three-Ingredient Brownies. Can you guess what’s in them? Nope, that’s not it. Not that, either. OK, I’ll spill: bananas, crunchy almond butter (I use crunchy peanut butter instead), and unsweetened cocoa. It's the perfect finish to a meal of Smoked Salmon Pasta Cooked in a Skillet, especially on nights we want to kick back in our home away from home.
​
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​Rich and I keep rearranging the itinerary as we discover intriguing new fare: North Macedonia’s tavče gravče, Croatia’s crni rizot, and Slovenia’s potatoes, said to be so good that locals indicate you’re lucky by commenting, “Well, you really have some potatoes!”
 
One restaurant that Rich has been talking about for years is Albania’s Ali Kali, where the owner brings your grilled fish to the table riding on the back of a trick horse.


​Yes, presentation really is everything! I’ve mentioned Ali Kali to many people, and not all of them share Rich’s enthusiasm. Some consider it dubious on many levels, starting with taste, hygiene, and whether it’s OK to teach animals to perform tricks. But I have learned to trust Rich’s “sniffer,” his nose for special experiences, especially those involving food. So while we expect our route to change many times as our whimsy takes us through Europe, the Ali Kali is a fixed star on our horizon. 

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Our route, as we know it so far. We'll take the train to Madrid, fly to Crete, and begin our wanderings.

​We leave April 20 and expect to be back in Spain somewhere around August-ish.
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26 Comments
Kay Funk
4/10/2019 06:39:45 pm

Except in Greece, it's just yogurt! Had it every morning when we cycled in Greece. So good Heard a very American accent one morning while walking back to hotel yell out, "Is that that Greek yogurt?"

Reply
Karen McCann
4/10/2019 07:49:01 pm

True Greek yogurt is amazing stuff, isn't it, Kay? And then the honey they put on it is so intensely flavorful. We were in Greece a year ago and when the food tour took us for a honey tasting, I was prepared to be underwhelmed. That's because I grew up on honey that came in plastic bears. But I loved every golden spoonful and now I treat honey and Greek yogurt with proper respect.

Reply
Denise Zeman
4/10/2019 06:41:42 pm

This sounds like a truly incredible journey, culinary and otherwise! Can't wait to read all about it. Bon voyage and buon appetito!

Reply
Karen McCann
4/10/2019 07:50:38 pm

Thanks, Denise. Rich and I are so excited by the tour and looking forward to sampling some of the world's best comfort food. I'm so glad you'll be joining us (virtually) on the journey.

Reply
Jeannie Fooshee link
4/10/2019 06:47:05 pm

Wow, this looks like a fabulous trip! We'll be following to get tips for our future adventures. When you finish, it would be great if we could meet again - we'll be in Portugal Aug-Oct.
Happy travel, and great food adventures!
Jeannie & Chris

Reply
Karen McCann
4/10/2019 07:52:32 pm

You two are world travelers; as we go along, I'm hoping you'll check in and give us tips on places to go and food to try. And yes, it would be great to meet up at the end and compare notes. Have fun in Portugal!

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Teri
4/10/2019 07:51:17 pm

What a great trip! We will be in Meteora, Crete and Athens in early/mid May and look forward to your recommendations.

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Karen McCann
4/11/2019 09:01:07 am

Teri, it sounds like you've got a great trip planned. The monastery in Meteora is legendary, and Crete looks fascinating. Having been to Athens I can tell you it's a delightful city with plenty to see and do, and lots of cozy small neighborhoods to enjoy. Have fun! I will let you know what we discover along the way, in case that proves helpful to your own adventure.

Reply
Sage
4/10/2019 08:28:51 pm

Wow! This is a long one! I am super envious... have a ball!

Reply
Karen McCann
4/11/2019 09:01:47 am

Thanks, Sage. We're very excited about this one, as you can imagine. Glad to know you'll be with us in spirit.

Reply
Dorothy Valerian
4/10/2019 08:41:37 pm

We'll be with you every delicious step of the way! Will Rich be carrying antacid in his infamous emergency medical kit?

Reply
Karen McCann
4/11/2019 09:03:23 am

He's already packed the Pepto Bismol and I've got some papaya enzyme chewables from the health food store. We're ready!

Reply
Faye lafleur
4/11/2019 01:02:52 am

What!!!!! I can’t wait for those recipes! Bon voyage et bonne chance!

Reply
Karen McCann
4/11/2019 09:04:29 am

Thanks, Faye! Let me know if you try any of the recipes. It's great to be able to recreate a Mediterranean tradition right in your own home kitchen!

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Jackie Smith link
4/11/2019 06:43:51 am

Bring an appetite is all I can say. We are having so much fun figuring out all the places that you 'need to try' that I figure if you plan on eating every two hours while here, you'll be about right! ;-)

Reply
Karen McCann
4/11/2019 09:05:37 am

Rich and I will be fasting from now until we see you in May, Jackie. Looking forward to many wonderful meals!

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Stan Braun
4/11/2019 05:05:32 pm

Who knows ... our paths may cross. We're flying to Sarajevo May 3rd and will be meandering through Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, North Macedonia, Kosovo & Serbia, flying back early August. It would be great to meet again.

Reply
Karen McCann
4/11/2019 06:34:50 pm

Sounds like a plan, Stan. Keep us posted on where you are, and this blog will give you a pretty good idea of our whereabouts. Your itinerary definitely matches up with ours at various points; the only country not on our agenda is Serbia. I'd love to hear how you enjoy that part of the trip!

Reply
Catherine Hutchison
4/11/2019 07:49:56 pm

I was in Crete last year about this time. Orthodox Easter is quite the celebration. In the village of Gavalachori were we stayed at 12:01 Easter morn Judas is burned at the stake. We missed the year he road in on a zip line from the church.
Easter lunch is all about the best of Greek comfort food. The lamb on the spit and eggplant fritters. There is everything to love about Cretian food.
Your trip sounds amazing!

Reply
Karen McCann
4/12/2019 09:00:05 am

Your Cretan Easter experience sound amazing, Catherine. I'd never heard of burning Judas at the stake, and I am seriously sorry not to have watched him arrive on a zip line. Ya gotta love it! Some friends living in Greece recommended a small village for Easter weekend, and we're planning to go there. So far I haven't heard mention of any Judas-burning. I will certainly inquire whether any such activities are planned; I'd hate to miss that highlight!

Reply
Carolyn Saunders
4/12/2019 11:00:57 am

My - I could almost dislike you for making me dream of all that lovely food in so many countries. Just back from Portugal where I have dined on delicious pork and fresh fish; not to mention a cataplana of chicken and langoustines. I do like a good plateful of stewed snails as well and don't even get me started on "proper" honey. I

I shall be drooling over your reports

Reply
Karen McCann
4/13/2019 07:55:29 am

Ahh, the fish and pork of Portugal! They do have wonderful food there, don't they, Carolyn? Did you try the pigs' ears? Apparently it's a local delicacy — and one that turns out to be just as bland and rubbery as you'd expect, although the sauce is lovely. It will be fun to have you with us in spirit on the trip; looking forward to comparing notes on the world's favorite foods.

Reply
Carolyn Saunders
4/13/2019 11:14:55 am

I have had the honour of attending a matassa - killing the pigs - on my friends' farm .Nobody wanted the pigs' ears so I suspect they are only served to unsuspecting tourists although I have come across a restaurant in Boulogne which served a casserole of ears, tails and trotters (not bad). The high point of the matassa was the elderly grannies giving me a plate of fried pig blood - to see if this new visitor was up to being adopted. It was delicious! Hence I am declared to be half-Portuguese for my, to my mind, old-fashioned upbringing of eating everything on your plate.

Kitty
4/12/2019 08:47:31 pm

The video is hysterical. Where did the horse come from? It just plops down with the fish in its mouth. I will try to make a few of your on the road comfort food meals before you return. I am already excited for your adventure. Cheers and fun!

Reply
Karen McCann
4/13/2019 07:59:42 am

Yes, the Ali Kali is certainly a hoot. The proprietor used to have just the white horse, and now he has several; I can only assume the others are in training. I look forward to meeting them all. Thanks for your words of encouragement and it's great to know you're with us in spirit as we set out on the journey.

Reply
Amy @ Ms. Toody Goo Shoes link
6/15/2019 04:20:26 am

Wow - what an amazing trip! I can't think of anything better than an extended vacation based on eating! Stopping by from TravelNWrite! Enjoy your trip! (PS - I'll be making those brownies for sure!)

Reply



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    Karen McCann
    TO I'm an American travel writer based in Seville, Spain.

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