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"Stranded" in Seville's Pandemic Lockdown

3/14/2020

41 Comments

 
Seville, Spain, Pandemic Lockdown / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
The entrance to the Alcázar, Seville's royal palace, normally has hundreds of tourists waiting hours in line to get in. This was taken three days ago, when there were few people around. Now there are none.

​Right now, the few tourists left in Seville are scrambling to get flights out, often paying insane ticket prices for roundabout routes involving multiple stops and layovers. On Monday, Spain goes into lockdown, with everyone confined to their homes except for short runs to the grocery store or pharmacy. Seville being a city of total scofflaws, I’ll be interested to see how much creativity goes into complying with the new regulations.
 
People are forking over thousands for flights to the US and Canada. In Paris, when New York Times reporter Mike McIntire heard the US borders were about to close, he paid $5000 for a pair of economy seats. Seconds later he learned the ban didn’t apply to American citizens — and seconds after that, he discovered that those pricy seats were impossible to cancel. To cheer him up, somebody told him another passenger had paid $20,000 for economy tickets (almost certainly an urban legend).
 
“Fortified with that tale of someone else’s woe,” Mike wrote, “we boarded the flight to New York, joining other frazzled Americans, wiping down seat armrests with sanitizer and wondering if being home would really be any safer than staying away.”
 
A very good question!
 
Rich and I were scheduled to leave for California March 25 and considered leaving weeks ago, ahead of the pandemic, but instead we decided to remain here in Seville.

Seville, Spain, Pandemic Lockdown / Karen McCann / EnjoyLivingAbroad.com
One of the last opportunities I'll have to go out for coffee; all restaurants, bars, shops, and businesses close on Monday for at least two weeks due to the virus.

​I’m literally betting my life that I’m safer in Spain than in the US. And boy, am I going to feel like an idiot if I lose that bet.
 
I’m know right now I’m safer avoiding such hot coronavirus breeding grounds as international airports, long-distance planes, and cruise ships. But hey, this virus is loose in the world, and the only way to avoid it completely would be to hide out alone in the woods with a year’s supply of food, megapacks of toilet paper, and a shotgun. And frankly, that way lies madness.
 
For those of us trying to hold onto some semblance of sanity, our best bet is to take sensible precautions — starting, of course, with hand washing.
 
Now, I wouldn’t describe myself as germ phobic, but I have a very healthy respect for hygiene and tend to wash my hands rather a lot at the best of times. So I was somewhat aghast to discover how skimpy my ablutions have been up to now, utterly failing to hit the twenty-second mark dictated by health experts. Yes, of course, I’ve tried humming the “Happy Birthday” song twice. That got old fast, so I tried singing other songs. Sadly the only ones that seem to pop into my head are hideous earworms like Bye, Bye Miss American Pie and that bizarre one about leaving a cake out in the rain, Macarthur Park. Aughhhh! Stop! Bring back the birthday song!
 
But then I discovered this highly appropriate tune, which hits the twenty second mark somewhere around the line, “in my brain.”


​As an alternative, you might try one of these Beatles hits, adapted for our trying times.

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​Or do it Texas-style.

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As for hand sanitizer, I’ve used up or shared with friends nearly all the store-bought, off-brand varieties I’ve been able to scrounge up and am now starting to make my own. There are many formulas out there, but most are pretty similar, and you can’t really go wrong with the simplest: two parts alcohol (91% to 99%) which kills germs as it evaporates, and one part something to make it gentler on your skin, usually aloe vera gel. Mix it in a bowl, funnel  it into bottles, and you’re good to go. Here’s an easy-to-follow video:
​

​And just to clarify, we’re talking about rubbing alcohol. Tweets about using vodka prompted Tito’s to issue warnings that even their vodka, which is 40% alcohol, doesn’t meet the standard required for medically effective hand sanitizer. To which one public spirited citizen replied, “Please increase the alcohol content of your Vodka to help combat coronavirus, thank you.”
 
Beer is even less useful as a hand sanitizer, but it is offering plenty of opportunities for a little innocent fun at the expense of a major brand that is now ruing the day it chose its name.

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​The World Health Organization advises against using alcohol as a way of dealing with our emotional upsets during the crisis. Seriously? I’m placing that recommendation in the optional category. In fact, I’m pulling out all the stops in an effort to keep my mental equilibrium. I’m checking in with family and friends, limiting the time I watch news reports of the crisis, doing yoga, watching lighthearted TV shows, reading entertaining books, and eating well. I have fond memories of being snowed in during Boston’s blizzard of 1978, spending long, cozy days writing letters (by hand!) and baking pies and cookies. I’m doing much the same now. I was up early this morning making granola and am planning a batch of banana bread soon, making an extra loaf for an 85-year-old friend who is no longer able to bake.

“There’s always a little bit of heaven in every disaster area,” remarked activist clown Wavy Gravy during the chaos of Woodstock.

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Wavy Gravy, philosopher, clown, and the best guy to cheer you up on a dark day.

As usual, Wavy was right. Now that we’re all living in the scary new normal of a global pandemic and nation-wide lockdown, it’s up to each one of us to find a way to be that little bit of heaven for those around us. We’ve all seen the footage of screaming women assaulting each other over the last package of toilet paper, which Is a sad commentary on what happens when people are desperate and afraid. But such demented moments don’t have to define our new normal; instead we can seek ways to show kindness and human decency. In the days ahead, we’ll all have opportunities to help each other weather the storm by lending a helping hand, passing along a funny story, or sharing some of the supplies from our own cupboards with those in more urgent need.
 
Like all of you, I am doing my best not to worry. I trust the Spanish health system to provide everyone with equal access to tests and any vaccines that are developed. My pantry has enough food for weeks. We just started a long-running British detective series and spend our evenings discussing clues and trying to guess whodunit. And I’ve bought a canvas so I can start painting again. Silver linings.
 
"When we least expect it, life sets us a challenge to test our courage and willingness to change,” wrote Brazilian author Paulo Coelho. “At such a moment, there is no point in pretending that nothing has happened or in saying that we are not yet ready. The challenge will not wait. Life does not look back. A week is more than enough time for us to decide whether or not to accept our destiny." Ready or not, we have arrived at the hour testing our collective courage. Let’s work together to rise to the occasion.
 
 
Good luck out there my friends! Let me know how you are holding up and what you are finding to sustain you through these challenging days.

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41 Comments
Shéa
3/14/2020 07:39:16 pm

Honestly, you're probably safer in Spain where they are taking things seriously and have (let's be honest) better healthcare. Over here, people are tromping along, ignoring the social distancing directives (Mostly those under 40. Those of us over 40 are taking things a bit more seriously), and fighting over toilet paper.

Yeah, you're likely better off where you are.

Stay safe and healthy!

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 07:40:57 am

Thanks, Shéa. Sounds like a madhouse in the US. As you say, they are taking things very seriously here, and the streets are already eerily quiet. Everyone feels so positive about the medical system. Last night at ten o'clock families all over Seville stepped out onto their balconies and clapped for the healthcare workers. It was a lovely moment. So yes, I'm very happy to stay where I am. Stay safe, my friend!

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foster wright
3/14/2020 07:41:37 pm

Me thinks you are safer in Spain without the orange genius...regards from New Hampshire....shot gun in the woods sounds good to me..I, however, lack the shotgun.

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 07:45:10 am

Foster, if it comes down to shotguns in the woods, I am toast. It's just not really my scene. Let's keep our well-sanitized fingers crossed that we all manage to muddle through this chaos somehow, and in a slightly more civilized manner. Good luck out there, my friend!

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Tricia Pimental link
3/14/2020 08:01:28 pm

I was scheduled to leave from home here in Portugal for L. A. on St. Paddy's Day, to speak at an International Living retirement overseas conference. Not going, happy to remain quiet, socially distant, in the countryside. Love your writings, Karen. Stay safe.

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Karen McCann
3/15/2020 08:04:58 am

Thank heavens you weren't stuck in LA, Tricia! The Portuguese countryside sounds like a wonderful place to ride this thing out. I'm picturing you puttering around the garden, getting lots of fresh air, having plenty of time to read and relax in the sunshine. Good luck, and stay safe and healthy!

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Phil Mickelson
3/14/2020 08:11:04 pm

I hope you stay well and get through the shutdown with your humor intact! My wife and I are doing our best to do the same here.

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Karen McCann
3/15/2020 08:26:38 am

Thanks, Phil! I hope you and your wife find a way to stay safe and sane during these crazy times. Remember, they can shut down the borders and the cities, but not our sense of humor!

Reply
Tracy West
3/14/2020 08:12:26 pm

So since all the rubbing alcohol is out of stock everywhere I looked, including online, I decided to find alternatives for the alcohol so I could do the DIY thing for the sanitizer. BevMo had grain alcohol in stock so I thought "Ah ha!!" Well, it is only 60% alcohol and does not meet the CDC rec of 70% alcohol content for hand sanitizer. And now the grocery stores are getting low on supplies of all sorts of things.
Stay in Spain, dear friends, and enjoy the time you have to do puzzles, binge Netflix and entertain each other.
Be well!!!

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 08:40:19 am

Tracy, I figure if you just pour 60% alcohol directly on your hands, it's as good a disinfectant as any. Remember all the old movies where they splashed it on wounds and instruments during emergency surgery in the Old West and on WWII battlefields? It works well enough, but it's expensive and you'll smell like a distillery. And this is where social distancing could work in your favor. Or you can just do what we're doing: go into isolation, in which case, you're at home with plenty of soap and water so you don't need sanitizer. I'm sure you'll find the right solution. Good luck, my friend; stay safe!

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Kay Funk
3/14/2020 08:26:24 pm

We're scheduled to go home 25 Mar. After reading family and friends comments, I believe we're safer here! Sure hope so! Good luck to you two. Think we will take long walk tomorrow before confinemen . At least we have roof top terrace to escape to and good friends to share our experience a

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 08:45:41 am

I so agree, Kay, that you're likely safer here than there. Now that the decision has been taken out of our hands, we all need to figure out how to make the best of our confinement. One last walk, congenial companions, and a rooftop terrace — sounds like you've got it covered. Good luck, my friend, and keep me posted on how you're doing!

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Nancy Solak
3/14/2020 08:38:28 pm

Well done, Karen! I agree with the others: Spain is a far better place in which to isolate. Especially loved this paragraph:​
"I’m literally betting my life that I’m safer in Spain than in the US. And boy, am I going to feel like an idiot if I lose that bet."

It's just so nice and old-fashioned to have everyone in the neighborhood home again--all at the same time. I can sit on my porch while they stroll by with their dogs and stop to chat. If this goes on too long, however, I may even end up with clean closets! Thanks for the fun read! What a treat!

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 04:58:45 pm

So glad you liked the post, Nancy. I loved the image of all your neighbors and their dogs; here, the streets are as empty as a ghost town, and the the city is eerily quiet. We're all gobsmacked by this surprising new reality — part welcome homestay, part sci-fi horror. I did have to chuckle over your line about clean closets; if I get down to that level of my to-do list, I will know I've been cooped up indoors too long!

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Jorge
3/14/2020 08:52:40 pm

Dear Karen and Rich:

Regards from Riga, and take care of both of you!

I will stay at home doing remote work until April 14th, which is the end of isolation period here (for the moment).
Ma and work colleagues did a good stock of food (including good old latvian beer!)
Shops are well stocked, will be kept open, and there is still toilet paper available!

Already there is a hand sanitizer point at my supermarket entrance.
The only trip outside the flat will be to take out the trash (and not very often)

Here in Latvia, borders will be closed at midnight monday.

Full information at:
https://eng.lsm.lv/topic/coronavirus/

About timing the hand washing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QtXAo8pICg

About alcohol for hand sanitizer, there is another way to get it!, check:
https://www.agroklub.com/agro-hobi/kako-proizvesti-vrhunsku-sljivovicu/20797/

So, keep calm and continue blogging!

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Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:02:48 pm

Lovely to hear from you, Jorge, and to know that you are well and as safe as possible these days. And yes, I will most certainly keep on blogging. I feel as if I have a front row seat to history, and every day brings mind-boggling surprises I can't wait to write about. Thanks for all the useful info and for your good wishes. Take care, my friend, and let me know how things go for you and for all of Latvia.

Reply
Devon link
3/14/2020 09:54:08 pm

I'll be following you from here. We are retired US expats living in Costa Rica for 4 yrs and I too feel safer here than I think I would back in the states. It's quite a mess back there right now. A huge expense for testing and treatment and no clear plan to speak of. Costa Rica has vowed to treat (for FREE) any and all people here who show signs of having the virus. No lockdown yet (fingers crossed)
Pura Vida, Stay safe and Keep Blogging!

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:10:04 pm

Costa Rica sounds like it has its act together, Devon. The US is in such chaos right now. I hear stories of returning expats having to wait six hours in line to get tested at the airport. What a nightmare! Here in Seville, the lockdown goes into effect tomorrow, but the government announcements scared everybody so much the entire population is already staying indoors. Very strange and such an unprecedented moment for this city and the world. Yes, I'll certainly keep on blogging! Thanks for following me.

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Diana Bishop
3/14/2020 11:15:42 pm

Thank you for your wise and humorous insight. I briefly searched for a panic ticket home to the US today but like you, made that bet that I would be better off remaining in Seville. Tonight I was moved by everyone on their balconies clapping in unison for the healthcare workers. That spirit and appreciation for those who work so hard on our behalf is not something I'd ever expect to experience in Boston.

Stay safe everyone.

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:13:32 pm

That applause for the healthcare workers was a wonderful moment last night. It's such a wonderful way for the entire city to pay tribute to the people who are on the front lines of this disaster. I've heard they've moved it from 10 pm to 8 pm so the younger kids can join in. As you say, Diana, I wouldn't expect anything like that in the US. Which is a shame, because it could be such a unifying moment. I think we're both lucky to be here now. Stay safe and keep in touch!

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Faye
3/15/2020 01:30:31 am

Thinking about u and Rich for last couple of days having heard very little about virus in Spain and knowing u were flying home soon. To my delight, there u were in my email when I awakened from a nap! That was rather short lived, however, when tuning in to CNN, I heard of four additional ships with sick travelers on board.

So it is definitely time to sit home and do our best at staying well.
Spring is upon us and there is much to do in terms of yard work and planting and enjoying being outdoors. Binging on books and tv, as well as yoga and long walks (since I am not going to gym) are also on my agenda.
And then, time to reflect on the words “Be still and know that I am God”.

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:19:50 pm

You're so right, Faye, that this is a good time for serious reflection. We are living through a life-and-death struggle, coping with massive uncertainty and horrific headlines. Luckily we are also seeing lovely moments of generosity, people reaching out to check in, sharing resources, finding a lighthearted remark to ease the tension. And my admiration for the healthcare workers knows no bounds. They are the real heroes. Lots to reflect on, these days!

Reply
Elizabeth
3/15/2020 05:19:05 am

LOVE IT, Karen! I am not surprised to find you both humorous and keeping things in perspective at the same time. Thank you!! It is REALLY hard to imagine Seville with all the bars and cafes closed. Here in Boulder, Colorado, many events have been canceled, but stores, cafes, restaurants, and bars remain open--so far! 🤞
And thanks for the hand sanitizer tip! To clarify regarding some earlier comments, isopropyl ("rubbing") alcohol and ethyl alcohol are NOT the same thing. Ethyl is the type we love to get buzzed on, and isopropyl is the kind in hand sanitizer and such (please don't drink it!). I'm surprised to see the 99% recommendation in the video--typical on-the-shelf (if you should be so lucky!) concentration in the US is 70%.
Thanks again Karen, you are a gem in this wilderness!

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:39:56 pm

You should see Seville today, Elizabeth; it's totally deserted, everything closed except a few grocery stores, where you have to go in, one at a time, wearing plastic gloves to do your shopping. Outside the grocery shop, there's a line in the street with everyone standing one meter apart in perfect silence. So strange and so unlike this boisterous, friendly city! But my phone's been ringing all day with people wanting to check in, and every evening we all stand on our balconies to applaud the real heroes, the healthcare workers. So the spirit of Seville is here, just in different form. Thanks for your words of encouragement. More posts to come!

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kitty
3/15/2020 05:30:12 am

I came back from Nica on the 5th where there are still no cases. Since I have been back our lives, like the virus are changing daily almost exponentially. I am glad the day I returned I got to be with my family for a couple of days. I would feel safer in Sevilla than here, where there are way too many moving pieces and an inept leader. So far safe and not afraid but mitigating.

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:42:39 pm

Glad to hear Nicaragua is still doing OK, and that you're home now with family, Kitty. Yes, the situation has so many moving pieces that we're all feeling dizzy, and the shocking headlines just keep on coming. I know you'll do all the practical stuff, and that you'll help those around you keep up their spirits. Stay safe and keep in touch!

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Jackie Smith link
3/15/2020 06:41:21 am

We shut down on Saturday for a minimum of two weeks and a promise that it will be extended if required in Greece. It was refreshing to have the government order it and everyone comply. One day was normal and the next everything shut down -- no political finger pointing, no second guessing the directive. We just did it. We still have plenty of toilet paper on the shelves and they never have sold hand sanitizer purse size in the village so we must 'make do' with soap. We've not got plans to return to the States. Our former home, Kirkland, is the epicenter of the nation no so am certainly feeling that staying in our Stone House on the HIll, taking a few hikes and reading those books I've never gotten around to, and puttering in the garden will be satisfactory for both social distancing and my soul. Good luck to you both and wash those hands! xx Jackie

Reply
Karen McCann
3/15/2020 05:47:03 pm

Jackie, as usual you put your finger on the really surprising element: the fact everyone in Greece, and here in equally unruly Spain, is cooperating and complying with directives. I was stunned to go out this morning and discover that everyone went on lockdown a day earlier than required! I haven't dug out the Spanish newspaper reports to get the details, but I can only assume the situation was presented in such lurid terms that the citizens gave a collective "Yikes!" and headed indoors for the duration. Hope your lockdown doesn't last too long; I suspect ours will be many weeks. But whatever it takes to stay safe. Be careful out there, my friend, and enjoy your garden and all those books.

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Steve McC link
3/15/2020 05:58:58 pm

Thanks Karen for the post and the humor. Here in Central Oregon, the schools have shut, so Pia is home for a couple of weeks. People seem to be on board with social distancing, I think, so I am hoping for the best.

So glad to hear you are taking up the brush again. Be sure and share a photo of your painting. Sending a hug for you and Rich.

Reply
Karen McCann
3/16/2020 08:40:54 am

No doubt having Pia home is a bright spot in this whole crazy situation. And I'm happy to hear Oregon is being sensible and taking reasonable precautions. You two would hardly recognize Seville; it's absolutely quiet in the streets. Everyone went on lockdown even before the deadline. Luckily I had time to run out and buy a canvas, and some gorgeous tomatoes, so I'm happy to pick up the brush again. And yes, I'll certainly be posting a photo of the finished painting. Stay safe, dear friends, and let me know how you are doing.

Reply
Dawn Starr link
3/15/2020 08:06:53 pm

Things have been quite civil here in Altea Spain. At the 24 hour market, (only a block away), everyone was waiting patiently outside so they could honor the 5 people limit at a time in the store, a reasonable selection of items, and no one was hoarding.
Last night's 10 pm applause for health workers was moving.
Oh, and I believe Paulo Coelho is Brazilian, unless you were referring to a different author with same name

Reply
Karen McCann
3/16/2020 08:46:45 am

It's so encouraging to hear people are being sensible and patient about shopping in Altea; I'm seeing the same here. The videos we see of Americans doing battle in the toilet paper aisles are appalling on so many levels. And thanks for the heads up about Paulo Coelho's nationality. I should have checked rather than trusting my memory. I've fixed it now. Wishing you the best of luck in the days ahead, Dawn, and please keep me posted on how you're weathering the crisis.

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Sage
3/15/2020 10:33:26 pm

The pictures and videos of Sevilla are amazing. We are thinking of you all lots.

Here in Seattle we're taking things pretty seriously, but I think it's safe to say that our neck of the woods is more introverted than Sevila, so social-isolation comes more naturally to us. We're used to spending the winter inside. ;)

Big hugs to you and Rich!
Sage

Reply
Karen McCann
3/16/2020 08:53:59 am

Yes, you'd hardly recognize the city, Sage. Quiet, orderly, the few people on the street keeping a careful meter apart. Not the boisterous, cheek-kissing Seville we both love. People here are taking the pandemic very seriously. One friend's co-worker is in the hospital with the virus, gravely ill. The danger feels very real here now. I'm glad to hear Seattle is getting serious. I hope the US goes on lockdown, a move experts predict would save hundreds of thousands of lives. But in the meantime, keep up that social distancing and stay safe, my friend.

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Frank McCann
3/17/2020 01:59:10 am

Karen and Rich

your staying in Spain is wise and just makes us all envious.

a recent example of how chaotic it is here in the States: your other home state of California went for Bernie and only our dear great state of South Carolina, which is hopelessly red, delivered sense and direction to the country by delivering the next President of your native country. If So. Carolina can see the light about getting rid of the idiot, then there must be a ground swell coming our way of good news and the end of chaos.

remain in Spain, unless you want to be advised by Pence as what to do regarding the virus.

Envious in Charleston.

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Karen McCann
3/18/2020 08:09:44 am

Frank, just reading your words "good news and the end of chaos" is so heartening, making me envision a better world in which responsible leaders find a way to get the pandemic under control and restore some semblance of normalcy to the world. From your lips to God's ear!

Reply
Sine link
3/17/2020 09:02:19 pm

Hola! I so needed your post today. It made me laugh. I love the Corona song. And I love the Ebola Extra. I miss South Africa, where we lived for three years, and where people had exactly that kind of humor. Whereas here the world is split into political factions - still. Finally even the White House is starting to sound the alarm, so that's a start.

Also loved your comment, Frank, about South Carolina. Just as I was feeling a ray of hope again after almost 4 years of doom, the virus came and (almost) shut the door. But at least the path forward is no clear, and if we can make it all till November, I think the people will speak, and this time they'll make a wiser choice.

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Karen McCann
3/18/2020 08:17:20 am

If we can't find reason to laugh, Sine, then we are truly lost. These days, my in-box is jammed with silly videos and funny stories, which not only make me chuckle but reassure me about the incredible resilience of the human spirit. Like you and Frank, I am hoping that going forward, we get more coherent, decisive, and science-based leadership to guide us through this health crisis.

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Faye
3/17/2020 10:26:22 pm

Ditto Sine! I am hoping and praying that we will be able to get out and vote in time to get him out. Otherwise he will say he has to stay in office for another year or 4!!! Yikes!

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Sine link
3/17/2020 11:42:14 pm

Well, if he makes it till November. I still think he's putting himself at huge risk continuing to shake hands and such. He is not out of the woods of getting infected himself. I hope not - I want him there in November to lose and to then go to jail where he belongs after that. We shall see.

For anyone who's interested, here is what I had written on my own blog a few days ago, trying to do my part to make people see the need for social distancing. I feel like I was talking against a wall. here in the Brentwood bubble, most of my friends were streaming to the beach for spring break, and all my pleas fell on deaf ears.

https://evamelusinethieme.com/2020/03/14/from-purging-to-hoarding-this-has-become-my-next-adventure/

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Karen McCann
3/18/2020 08:20:43 am

Sine, I loved your post about social distancing. So clear, logical, and thoughtful. Thanks for sharing your wisdom, my friend. Let's hope people heed your words!




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    ​Winner of the 2023 Firebird Book Award for Travel
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    Karen McCann
    TO I'm an American travel writer based in Seville, Spain.

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