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​YES, THERE'S hope

Taking Your Hair on the Road

1/15/2013

 
As the old barber slid his comb through Rich’s hair and began to snip, Rich asked the man if he’d ever cut bullfighters’ hair. After all, the tiny barbershop was located in the very wall of the bullring in Ronda, where modern bullfighting was first developed in 1726. “Oh, yes,” the barber said. He began to walk around the room, pointing to faded black and white prints of men dressed for the ring in their suits of lights. “I cut his hair...and his...” He pointed to one last picture just inside his doorway. “And I have cut this man’s hair...” It was Ernest Hemingway.
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Papa Hemingway and Ronda's most famous bullfighters, the Ordoñez family, shown just steps from the entrance to the barbershop.

As you can imagine, Rich was thrilled. He put off his next haircut as long as possible (and then some) so he could have the pleasure of saying, “You see this haircut? I got it from Hemmingway’s barber. Yeah, we share a barber...”

When it comes to haircuts on the road, guys have a pretty easy time of it. My own experiences have not always been so satisfactory. For instance, there was the time in the Republic of Georgia when the hairdresser showed up drunk and hacked off all my hair in a style that would have looked at home in boot camp. 
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Once, early in our Seville years, when I was just starting to color my hair, I asked that instead of plain brown we consider adding a tiny hint of red. I was hoping for a nuanced auburn, but the results were pure Bozo.

It took me years to find a Spanish hairdresser who really seemed to understand that I wanted a simple, natural look. Soon after I did, Spanish friends sat me down and told me that my hair was “too serious.” Say what? “We have all talked about it,” said a woman with big, blond curls. “Don’t you want hair that is happier? You could make it more blonde, give it some curls...”

I couldn’t believe my ears. It was an intervention. About my hair.

Then I realized they were kindly initiating me into the ways of the tribe. That intervention was the nicest insult I’ve ever received.

I never did switch to big hair, mostly because I didn’t want to have to keep explaining to American friends that no, I hadn’t taken up a career as a country-western singer or a hooker. Today, I have shoulder-length hair that can be pulled back in a ponytail during long periods on the road, with bangs that I can, if necessary, trim myself.

To keep it clean and shiny, I recently discovered a good road shampoo called Lush. By extracting all the water, they’ve made it super light and no longer subject to pesky airline restrictions about fluids in your carry-on. It looks like a slender, round bar of soap, and you can use it to wash your hair, your body, your laundry and – some friends assure me – your dog, and even your car.

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Lush offers a range of shampoos and conditioners. My advice: try to avoid the ones with flecks, as they're horribly messy. And a friend advises against the combined shampoo/conditioner bar, saying they dissolve at different rates and you'll end up tossing away a good chunk of conditioner.

Lush makes cute little round tins, perfectly sized to fit. But if your bar goes in while it's moist, it attaches itself like a barnacle to the bottom of the tin, and you have to pry it out with a knife, leaving half the bar behind in an oozy mess. We just bought their larger, square tin, which will let you get your fingers around the bar to extract it. Rich is now experimenting with creating a sort of drainer to insert in the bottom. I’m sure he’ll be successful. Anyone who looks so much like Ernest Hemmingway won’t let himself be defeated by a little thing like a bar of shampoo. 


This post was written in response to questions I've been asked about packing for such a long and varied trip. Unlike some of my better-organized and more practical blogger friends, I haven't obtained free or discounted gear in return for promoting anything on this blog. I'm just letting you know what products Rich and I consider to be the most useful for our kind of travel. Watch for future posts about the garments, gear and gadgets we'll be packing!
Polly Burns link
1/15/2013 03:02:36 am

This Lush stuff sounds great! If I have clean hair, it matters less what state of cleanliness the rest of me is in. I always thought dry spray shampoo would be the way to go, but you can't wash your clothes with that. Love the link between Rich and Ernest Hemingway! How cool is that!

Karen McCann
1/16/2013 03:42:48 am

I agree, Polly, the Lush stuff is a real find. And it's sold in 47 countries, so it's easy to find when you're on the road; they have Lush shops in most major cities, even in Romania, Solvenia and other no-so-traveled places. And yes, Rich is still basking in the glory of his link with Papa Hemingway. Very cool!

Andrea Murphy
1/15/2013 05:21:19 am

I always thought Uncle Rich looked like Ernest. Now I know why!!!!

Great post Karen. Love that Lush stuff.

Karen McCann
1/16/2013 03:46:42 am

Yes, the resemblance is remarkable! And on the same theme, I just got this note from my brother Steve, that kind of puts things in perspective:

How often can one name drop barbers? WELL, my friend in Boulder worked at Supercuts. One day a man about 40 came in, asked for a trim and fell asleep. It was - - drum roll - - John Denver.

And Rich, how many records did that Hemingway guy sell anyway?

Justine Ickes link
1/15/2013 09:22:32 am

What a fun story about being initiated into the tribe of blunt feedback. When I lived in Spain in the 1980s my hairdresser was always convincing me to die my mousy blonde hair all manner of colors. I still have the cringe-worthy photos to prove it. Later, after I married my husband, I was initiated into the world of Turkish "I'm only saying this because I love you" comments. ;-)

Karen McCann
1/16/2013 03:51:13 am

It's amazing what some cultures let you say. Here in Seville people think nothing of asking how much I paid for something, like my apartment, or insisting I tell them who is prettier or the better artist. And the blunt feedback – hey, you gained weight! – still takes me by surprise. I gather it's the same in the Turkish world. When it really does have love behind it, that takes a lot of the sting out of it, but still it's hard to get used to!

Jackie Smith link
1/15/2013 10:46:28 am

Great tip here; will have to seek this out before our next travels to Europe.

Karen McCann
1/16/2013 03:56:21 am

Yes, luckily the Lush products are pretty easy to locate. Their website http://www.lush.com/ has a list of all the countries, and each country lists the cities. There's a store right in downtown Seville, on Sierpes. If you try the products let me know how you like them!

Nancy
1/16/2013 03:26:27 pm

Very informative and fun! "My" hairdresser in Italy was so excited to have someone who didn't have black hair (everyone there who gets highlights have to get them in red) that he made my medium-brown hair blonde. I went with it while we lived there. The photo of Hemingway and the matadors is a great find!

Karen McCann
1/21/2013 06:06:34 am

Sometimes it's fun to go with the flow, even if you wind up with a hair color that you never expected. Here in Spain, at least half the women I know have transformed themselves into blondes. I've had blonde highlights, the ghastly red fiasco, dark brown...and now I've got a warm brown that's more or less my own color (as it was before the ravages of time). Everyone dyes their hair here, even farmers and the butcher's boy. And that's the fun of living abroad...we get to try new things.

Margo link
1/17/2013 06:32:02 am

Hair- a constant challenge for women while traveling. Whenever I move it takes forever to find the right hairdresser... Here in Myrtle Beach everyone wanted to make me blonder too! It got to the point of realizing they were charging me for highlights to essentially dump color on my whole head. Then there's the water  – water in different places can make my look vary from looking rained on to like a boxwood in need of pruning! Very curious to try Lush - I tried one of those bar shampoos a while back and it was awful. As always, love your writing and insights!

Karen McCann
1/23/2013 10:33:54 am

You are so right about the hair challenges we women travelers face. Guys with conventional shorter cuts have it so much easier! Trying to keep my hair looking decent is never easy, and in a new environment it can really make me crazy! Let me know if Lush works for you. I had to try several shampoos and their conditioner before finding combination that really worked for me.

Jill Dobbe link
1/20/2013 11:29:34 am

I totally agree about hair and the constant challenge while traveling. I am not a long and silky haired woman who can just put her hair up in three seconds and be ready for a romp through a country. I have to have monthly cuts, dye my hair often, and travel with a supply of hair products. Every time I move to a new place I cringe just thinking about where to go to get a decent haircut. I do ask around, look for shops near me, and test out a few different ones until I find a hairdresser that almost does what I want. I have tried to explain my hair to a Spanish speaking only hairdresser in my very limited Spanish, dropped in for a cut at the Nefertiti Salon in Cairo with Arabic-only speaking hairdressers, have had other customers expain for me, and have even succumbed to trimming my hair myself. I am happy to say that I found a great hairdresser recently in Honduras and she is the only one among many hairdressers who speak English. One of the nice things though about getting haircuts in another country are the superb head massages that they automatically give you. My husband loves them so much he goes every week for a buzz-cut. Enjoyed your article Karen! ~Jill

Karen McCann
1/23/2013 10:28:12 am

I agree, Jill, it is SO hard to find a good hairdresser anywhere, and it's especially maddening in a foreign country, with all the cultural and language differences to complicate things. Sounds like you really lucked out in Honduras! And you're right, those massages are heaven. I can totally see why your husband goes every week!

Marilyn Bethany
1/24/2013 10:38:45 am

Your account of Rich's sleep-a-thon on board reminds me of something that happened to a friend. For an overnight flight from South America to the U.S., she took an Ambien. Awakened by the landing announcement, she was appalled to discover that her bum was soaking wet. The man next to her leaned over and said, "When the stewardess came around offering water, you woke up, took a cup and brought it to your mouth, but instead of drinking, you closed your eyes, tipped the cup and poured the water in your lap."

Ri
2/8/2013 09:28:23 pm

Dear Marilyn,

Oh my goodness! Being an occasional user of Ambien myself (to mitigate jet-lag insomnia), this is good to know for something similar happened to me last night.. Instead of water in my lap, I practically fell asleep onto my dinner plate of food 3 times. Glad we can appreciate the comedy in these experiences, despite it being awkwardly hilarious ..


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