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The Devil's Footprint

8/20/2013

11 Comments

 
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Is the actual footprint of the Devil in Munich?

​“So when the Devil stamped his foot in rage, the force was so great that it left an actual footprint here in the entrance to the cathedral,” said Liz, who was showing us around Munich. It seems Beelzebub had seen the cathedral half built, and it struck him as a dark and gloomy place that would drive people away from God, so he told the architect, “If you don’t put any more windows in it, I’ll send my friends down at night to help, and you’ll finish the building in just 20 years.” Back in the 12th century that counted as lightning speed, and the architect, with dreams of glory in his head, quickly agreed.

​When the cathedral was finished, the Prince of Darkness returned to gloat, only to discover that there was plenty of light from a window – installed before the bargain was struck – behind the high altar.  The church was already consecrated, so the Evil One could only rage helplessly in the foyer, leaving his footprint stamped in the stone floor. 
​
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Dachau concentration camp is another place around Munich where the Devil left a footprint.

​Just ten miles outside of Munich, there’s another spot where the Devil left his footprint: the Dachau concentration camp, now a memorial park. Rich and I went there with a small tour, and as we gathered, one woman told me, “I’m here with four other women, but they thought Dachau would be too depressing for their last day of vacation, so they decided to go shopping instead.” Well yeah. I guess it would be more fun to spend the day buying cheap fake lederhosen and Oktoberfest t-shirts for the folks back home. But I suspect the real reason those women stayed away is that they were, like me, terrified of the place.

Those who designed the memorial, and our young American tour guide, Tom, made every effort to undercut the horror with a bland, matter-of-fact presentation of the facts. The first permanent concentration camp, Dachau was opened in 1933 and served as a prototype for all the Nazi camps that followed. It was designed as a work camp for political prisoners, mostly men, and more than 200,000 people from all over Europe were incarcerated there during its 12 years of operation.

​Towards the end of the tour, Tom took us to see the ovens and the first model gas chamber. But by the time we got there – in fact, from the moment we passed through the famous gate that said, with cruel irony, “Arbeit macht frie” (“Work makes you free”) – I mostly felt numb. I was walking around inside a Devil’s footprint that was so huge that my mind and heart could simply not take it all in.
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A giant beer seemed a good way to end the day.

After the tour, Rich and I went back to the neighborhood we were staying in, a mix of Persian restaurants, strip clubs, and soulless modern apartment blocks. As we sat over mast-o khiar, jujeh kabobs, and beer, I looked around at the other customers, most of whom were Iranian, many of them women in full purdah. Outside people of every race, culture, and lifestyle were strolling along the sidewalks; no doubt many of them were on their way to commit all sorts of acts that were forbidden under the Nazi code of conduct. And I felt my spirits begin to lift at the thought that sometimes you actually can beat the Devil.

11 Comments
Jackie Smith link
8/21/2013 09:30:51 am

Beautifully written post! I've visited the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC as often as I am in that city and do so because I think every person (travelers, in particular) need to be reminded of that time in our history and thank our lucky stars we didn't live then. My traveling companions often 'do something else' because it might depress them. . .sigh. Great writing on this one!!

Reply
Karen McCann
8/21/2013 09:48:31 am

Thanks for your kind words about the post, Jackie. I visited the Holocaust Museum some years ago, and found it an immensely powerful experience. I had resisted going, thinking who wants to immerse themselves in a nightmare? But I was so glad I went. It somehow enlarges your understanding of what it means to be human – both the good and the bad. Memories of that museum have stayed with me ever since, and it really helped prepare me for visiting the memorial at Dachau, which was far more understated, but of course, more horrible for being the real thing.

Reply
Joanna Styles link
8/21/2013 10:10:49 am

Enjoyed this very much. I've visited Munich and was fascinated by the devil's footprint in the cathedral, but didn't make it to Dachau (lack of time, but mostly I think, lack of gall).

Reply
Karen McCann
8/22/2013 12:45:15 am

Sometimes you have to wait until the right moment to go to a place like Dachau. Glad you saw the devil's footprint, one of the quirky things I loved in Munich.

Reply
Robert link
8/21/2013 10:21:08 am

Great piece! When I consider the Germans, one of whom I nearly married, and how similar they seem to Brits (say) and how much I´ve liked the ones I´ve known well,, then I ask myself the inevitable questions. "How?" "Why?" It´s not hard to come up with some uncomfortable speculation.

Reply
Karen McCann
8/22/2013 12:53:26 am

Thanks, Robert, I'm so glad you liked the piece. I have the same uncomfortable thoughts, especially since I have German ancestors. As they say, all that is necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing... Yet how often do we have a chance to speak out? Which is one of the reasons I felt I had to write this piece, instead of doing one of my usual lighthearted posts.

Reply
Ryan Taxis link
8/21/2013 10:34:52 pm

Great post, Karen! I went to Dachau back in the day when I was in college, and purposely skipped it when I went back to the region with my parents. Once is definitely enough, and I still remember one of the girls I was with crying the entire time we were there.

Reply
Karen McCann
8/22/2013 12:56:17 am

Glad you liked the post, Ryan. I agree that once is probably enough. I don't know how the guides can handle visiting the site over and over again. I give them credit for their commitment. And I'm so glad I don't have that job!

Reply
Vivana Brodey
8/22/2013 12:11:15 pm

Dear Karen, I don't know if you were aware that the contingent
that liberated Dachau was the all-Japanese-American army
sent from Hawaii. Stranger than fiction! Love, Vivana

Reply
Karen McCann
8/22/2013 02:00:14 pm

That's something they never mentioned on the tour! Or in the various accounts I've read. What a wonderful, strange fact. Thanks for letting me know, Viviana.

Reply
Ajay Kumar link
8/23/2013 06:51:51 am

Wow, sounds an interesting tour! the story written well and presenting nice detail of the tour..
thanks for sharing your experience with us.

Reply



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