Right now our front hall looks like a field hospital, cluttered with masks, gloves, hand sanitizer, and our new, most prized possessions: face shields. When we wear them, Rich and I feel like astronauts in a very, very low-budget horror movie, suiting up to leave the mothership. But the fact we can go out for walks together, for the first time in nearly two months, is worth all the effort it takes to ignore how ridiculous we appear. Here in Spain, we’re cautiously “de-escalating the State of Alarm,” as the government likes to put it. We haven’t even entered Phase One yet, but so far Phase Zero has been pretty thrilling, with new freedoms and many stores and services (including hairdressers!) open at last. A friend returning from an appointment at my favorite salon described the atmosphere as “weird,” with staff and clients swathed in plastic, wearing masks and gloves, and trying not to breathe any more than strictly necessary. Frankly, it sounds hideous and I’m not rushing down there any time soon. I flatter (or delude) myself that for now, I’m doing a decent enough job of home hair maintenance. As we inch our way out of quarantine, I find myself looking back on the extraordinary experiences of the past two months as a sort of bizarro world, parallel universe version of adventure travel. Looking up definitions online, I saw adventure travel involves “stepping outside your comfort zone,” “experiencing culture shock,” and “some degree of risk or physical danger.” Yep, we can check off those boxes. It’s also about the narrative that shapes our experience, and the stories, jokes, photos, and videos that define the journey and show us what it’s taught us about the world, our times, and ourselves. Like heading off to, say, the Albanian mountains or rural Greece, being overtaken by the pandemic has thrown us all into culture shock as the world we know disappears in the rear view mirror. We’re cut off from friends, colleagues, habitual haunts, and daily activities, while spending an unprecedented amount of time with our closest companion(s). Every day we absorb new language (contact tracing, index case, herd immunity) and new customs (20-second hand washing, elbow sneezing, evening clapping). Every headline and meme boosts our hyperawareness of the physical risks of our situation (including occasional impulses to hurl ourselves or our companion(s) into the trash compactor). Some of my fellow travel writers are still producing jaunty little articles about the six best tiki bars on Maui, but I don’t see much point in praising the delights of going abroad when international borders are closed, those tiki bars are locked up tight, and anyone with any sense is sheltering in place. Old-school travel articles feel tone deaf, irrelevant, and downright cruel to anyone frustrated over being trapped at home, especially those with fussy toddlers, angst-ridden teens, or a fed-up spouse. Everybody’s speculating about what the post-pandemic world will look like, with timelines ranging from next month to never, but the truth is no one can guess how this thing is going to play out. “The dogmas of the quiet past are inadequate to the stormy present,” Abraham Lincoln once said. “The occasion is piled high with difficulty, and we must rise with the occasion. As our case is new, so we must think anew and act anew.” With the past increasingly less pertinent and the future a mystery, we have little choice but to live — as the Buddhists have been advising for years — in the present moment. For me, the present moment is all about emerging from seclusion into the larger world. And that’s a journey as challenging and exhilarating as hiking in the Himalayas or canoeing on the Amazon river. I’m doing my best to comply with Spain’s four-phase plan, a classic piece of government bureaucracy that’s enormously complex yet surprisingly vague, subject to constant revisions, and hedged about with warnings that we’d better not run amok and cause the numbers to spike. Which apparently is government-speak for “Yes, we will arrest you for infractions of the rules, as soon as we figure out what we say they are.” As this chart shows, we’re now allowed out for walks and exercise by age group. Being 68, I can take a paseo (stroll) during the blue period (anyone over 14), to accompany my husband during the purple period (those over 70), or for exercise during the orange period (individual sports). No doubt if I put my mind to it I could also come up with a reason to be out during the only other time slot, the green period designated for kids under 14, but at this stage I’d just as soon avoid the darling little disease vectors as much as possible, so the question doesn’t really arise. The amount of time (one hour or two) and the distance we can travel (one kilometer from our home or anywhere in the municipality) are equally confusing, but luckily nobody’s paying much attention to those restrictions anyway. I’m grateful for the chance to go out, but already I’m faintly nostalgic for the cocoon of safety represented by weeks of being comfortably ensconced in my apartment. It’s a scary world out there. The virus curve may have flattened, but we still don’t have a vaccine to protect us if/when this thing comes roaring back in the fall. Other 2020 catastrophes-in-the-making include the world economy, US election, and our new friends, the gigantic carnivorous insects known affectionately as “murder hornets.” What’s next? Flesh-eating zombies? Oh right, something worse: climate change. With all that to look forward to, I suspect that in the months ahead, many of us will come to view the quarantine era as the calm before the hurricane. Life may echo Lincoln's words: “I pass my life in preventing the storm from blowing down the tent, and I drive in the pegs as fast as they are pulled up.” But this is where a lifetime of reading about travel adventures pays off. One of my favorites is Andrew Forstheofel’s 4000-mile walk from Philadelphia to New Orleans and then California. At 23, jobless, homeless, and single, he set off on foot with the vague idea of talking to people along the way and asking what advice they would give their 23-year-old selves if they could go back in time. The stories he recorded are marvelous, and in the end, most of the advice people would give their younger selves boiled down to this comment from a Maryland woman: “I wouldn't worry so much. I used to worry myself to death. And then now I realize the things you worry about, how many of them come true? Very seldom.” She’s right; even in these unnerving times, we don’t have to live in a permanent State of Alarm. As I ease into the neo-normal, I am trying to stay present to the moment, bake more bread, worry less, avoid binging on the news, and spend more time dancing with my husband. That’s my survival strategy and I’m sticking with it. I’ll let you know how it works out. What advice would you give your 23-year-old self, if you could go back in time? What do you think some of these people might have said to their younger selves? Let me know in the comments section below. More Pandemic Perspectives & Humor Scofflaws, Naysayers & Coronavirus Myths In the Pandemic: Desperate Situations, Ingenious Solutions Why We All Feel Hopelessly Unproductive in Quarantine Quarantined? Take Mini-Vacations. For Betty White's Sake Months of Quarantine? OK, If That's What It Takes Yes, You CAN Stay (Relatively) Sane During Lockdown Stranded" in Seville's Pandemic Lockdown
20 Comments
Jackie Woods
5/7/2020 05:20:35 pm
Just to let you know we’re following you from good old Cleveland. It’s so fun to hear your stories and advice. Glad you and Rich are safe and reentering the world. Jackie
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:12:37 pm
So wonderful to hear from you, Jackie! I hope you, Jack, and the girls are all keeping well in these precarious times. Glad to hear you're still in Cleveland; we have so many fond memories of our time there. Yes, it's exciting to be reentering the larger world again at last. I certainly appreciate life's small pleasures, like sunshine and parks, more than ever before.
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5/7/2020 06:37:22 pm
Oh Karen, I love your posts so much! You bring joy to a serious matter. And those face shields. Where did you get them? I want one for me!
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:16:02 pm
Pia, I'm delighted to hear you're enjoying my pandemic posts. As for the face shields, Rich stumbled across some at a pharmacy near the Setas. Apparently they arrive and supplies are depleted within minutes; he just got lucky with his timing. You can order them online too, but somehow that doesn't seem quite as thrilling. As for your advice — yes, travel is the best education, especially to places as exotic as Asia and Africa. I look forward to the day that becomes possible again.
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Catherine Hutchison
5/7/2020 09:12:10 pm
Love this post and the careful, thorough directions by the government. I know it must seem like almost too much freedom. I am looking forward to a vaccine someday and the feeling that it's safe to travel again.
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:20:20 pm
So glad you like the post, Catherine. Yes, government officials everywhere seem to have a knack for adding layers of complication and confusion to instructions. Here's hoping we manage to follow the plan enough to keep our numbers down until testing and vaccines become readily available. As for your advice to your younger self — that's a great recommendation. Living in various places teaches you a lot about the world and how to be part of a community. It would be good advice for anyone at any age.
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Kitty
5/7/2020 10:02:41 pm
Loved your descriptions of going out. I had the Peggy Sue Got Married idea before the 1986 film. My life got pretty great after 23. I would tell myself; don't skip Timbuktu when you go to Mali in 1978, learn Spanish instead of French and find a better career that would have integrated into my travels and being a mom perfectly.
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:24:02 pm
Kitty I am picturing you in Timbuktu in 1978 — an adventure for sure. I totally agree about Spanish; who knew it would be so useful in the long run? I studied French in school as well, and rarely get to use it. A job that combines work and travel and being a mom? Now that would be the dream job!
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Tanya
5/7/2020 10:29:18 pm
Loved this Karen. Whilst I would love to think that we could be travelling again soon, I suspect that it may be a very long time.
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:37:43 pm
Too true, Tanya; it will likely be a very long time until anyone travels long distances for any reasons beyond strict necessity. Local travel will still be possible, and I understand there's a surge of interest in camping and glamping (glamorous camping) for those craving adventure and social distancing in one package. We're all going to be adapting in ways we never imagined.
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5/8/2020 04:12:47 am
I agree. These two months of the humans staying indoors, and the other animals (and their paparazzi) enjoying the planet without us, were exhilarating.
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Karen McCann
5/8/2020 01:45:23 pm
"This prickly period of history" is a great way to describe the current moment, Alicia. Yes, the conspiracy theories get more outlandish ever day. I hear many of them are produced by bots ... but that may just be another urban legend. In the long run, I am hoping this crisis makes us appreciate science, medicine, and evidence-based theories in a whole new way. Stay safe, my friend, and enjoy your creative projects and the pleasures of sheltering at home.
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Faye
5/9/2020 11:10:32 pm
I would say to a younger me, “Don’t get caught up in following the herd. As Joseph Campbell said, “follow your bliss.”
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Karen McCann
5/11/2020 07:07:25 am
Great advice, Faye! Something we all need to hear, no matter what our stage of life.
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5/10/2020 06:39:18 am
I LOVED this post as it rings so true for those of us in Greece. We are cautiously (some like the youngin's that gathered by the 100's in Syntagma Square not so cautiously) re-entering the world. I am finding it odd to think about travel again in the terms of 'would I feel safe?' not 'where shall we go next?' or 'when do we go back to the States?' At this point Greece is quarantining all who enter the country for 24 hours - planes being met by police, testing being done and then you await the results in a hotel room. . .as a resident, I think it is great. But not sure I want to add that little detour when I return from trips, should it continue. . .great post, Karen! (FB reminded me that you were here a year ago this last week! Great memories!)
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Karen McCann
5/11/2020 07:15:48 am
Rich and I have been talking about our visit with you in Greece — how much fun we had, and how the world has changed since then. As for travel these days, the question about safety is a good one; I suppose it depends where you go and what their particular protocols are. I heard about one Spanish town that not only sprayed the streets with bleach, but sprayed the entire beach as well, devastating the local flora and fauna and sparking a firestorm of controversy, especially as it was pretty pointless. But in such a loony situation, it's not always easy to know what makes sense!
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Fiona Batista
5/10/2020 06:18:54 pm
Here in Portugal we’ve moved from a State of Emergency to a State of Calamity, which believe it or not is an improvement. It has caused a great deal of amusement amongst the expats - it makes me laugh every time I read it.
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Karen McCann
5/11/2020 07:22:47 am
I love it, Fiona. Is calamity really a step down from emergency? Not in the English language anyway! I can see why the expat community is chuckling over it. Here we're in a State of Alarm, and personally I am expecting to be alarmed for some time to come, even after the status is officially lifted by the government. Thanks for sharing this and your advice to your younger self. A good point; it's so easy to fret about what people may think ... when likely as not, they're thinking something quite different. And worrying doesn't help anyhow!
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Phyllis
5/11/2020 05:05:39 pm
Karen, I saw this about the predominance of flats in Spain. Thought you would appreciate and identify with your experience.
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5/13/2020 11:50:41 pm
Having lived in Mexico, studied in Colombia and used Spanish just about everyday in my law practice, I still had to look up the word, "franjas". Stripes? I guess that's a reference to the color coded time sections. Here, in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, we also have color coded sections of the state. I live in Philadelphia, still flashing fire engine red. I'm thinking we'll be allowed out in about 2022 - maybe.
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